Garuda Indonesia Colours Magazine July 2014 | Page 142
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Travel | Muscat
© Oman Tourism
Al-Jalali Fort stands guard
over Oman’s famous Muttrah
Corniche, defending Muscat
since the late 16th century.
Oman’s capital has begun
to truly flourish under the
current sultan, Qaboos bin Said
Al Said. Since his accession to
the throne in 1970, newspapers
have been founded, highways
have been built and tourism to
Muscat and surrounding
areas has blossomed.
Standing guard at the entrance to Muttrah
Harbour, and offering outstanding views
across the historically intact Muttrah Souq
and Al Alam Palace, the domineering 16thcentury Al-Jalali Fort is where this luxury
tour through Muscat begins.
As Sultan Qaboos sails into the harbour
on board his royal dhow with full white
sails hoisted, traditional bagpipe calls echo
through the mild evening air, and the glow of
fireworks reflects in the glistening midnightblue waters. The historic low-rise off-white
buildings with their straight lines and simple
arches glow as the lights in the darkening
skies flash all around. This city has so much
to offer to anyone who is willing to take the
time to explore it.
The bridge and stone path along Muttrah
Corniche offer some of the most scenic views
out to sea. The exclusive pathway passes
alongside the inner courtyard of the Sultan’s
very own intricately decorated Qasr Al Alam
Palace towards the white, blue and gold tiled
entrance guarded by tall black gates adorned
with golden Omani khanjars (daggers).
Although rebuilt in 1972, His Majesty’s
ceremonial palace is unlike any other royal
palace in the region; it looks like an ordinary,
albeit luxurious, Omani residence from
the front. Local legend has it that the
palace has a bowling alley in its basement,
and when the Sultan hits a strike the skies
roll with thunder!
To enjoy a taste of life as a Sultan there’s
nowhere better than the award-winning
Chedi Muscat, Oman’s most luxurious
hotel. Set on a private beach, the 158roomed Omani-Japanese-European-styled
abode welcomes guests with a light-lit water
feature and grand entrance into an intricately
decorated, authentically Omani reception
area. The crème de la crème of Chedi’s rooms
is undoubtedly the Club Suite, with a private
balcony complete with sunken bathtub,
offering spectacular views of the Gulf of
Oman, the Hajar Mountains, water ponds
and well-pruned palm-lined gardens.
North from the hotel, head to the ancient
walled city, which houses the legendary
Muttrah Souq and Grand Mosque. The
smoothly cut double-arched gate welcomes
visitors to Muscat proper. Now being used
as part of a museum of Omani history, the
gate was used up to the 1970s to protect
against marauding attackers coming from
boats docked in the corniche… Not that
marauders would have had to attack the
walled city, as the Sultan’s Palace sits on
the shore of the corniche.
Muscat’s, and quite possibly Oman’s,
quintessential image is that of the complex
Muttrah Souq. The magical labyrinth of
narrow alleyways is lined with tightly packed
stalls brimming with unique Oudh essential
oils, pure gold khanjars and coffee pots, and
not forgetting frankincense crystals. For
centuries, imams and sultans have wandered
these hallowed alleyways, searching through
the troves of treasure alongside the ‘common
folk’ of Oman. Omani men dressed in white
collarless dishdasha gowns edged with golden
silk and masar turbans call out, trying to entice
passers-by to sample their wares. Deep inside
the market lies the Gold Souq, a bustling
marketplace for shimmering necklaces,
bracelets, charms and even kitchenware.
Rumour has it that sultans throughout history