Garuda Indonesia Colours Magazine February 2018 | Page 94

92 Travel | Baubau 1 2 I arrive at Betoambari Airport in Baubau just before midday after a flight from Makassar that took less than an hour. If travelling by sea, the distance between the two cities can be covered in half a day. The island of Buton has various elements that are as attractive as the Wakatobi islands. The geological features of the two are similar: they both have long, calm beaches, some good dive spots, caves and natural pools. Buton also has highlands where tropical rainforests, rivers and waterfalls can be found. As the largest city on Buton, Baubau is better known as a stopover point. Since ancient times, this city has been an important hub connecting the eastern and western islands of Indonesia. Baubau, with its strategic position, was the gateway for sailors and explorers to enter the Maluku peninsula, the islands of West Papua and the Lesser Sunda Islands to the south. My guide Edi Djufri collects me at the arrivals gate and we drive straight to the city centre, to Wameo Market. Edi introduces me to a group of architects and researchers from Bali who are documenting the various local commodities that are sold at Baubau’s traditional markets. Ayu Gayatri Kresna, the research coordinator, explains that there are still many high-quality ingredients in the traditional markets of Baubau and that they haven’t all been replaced by modern conveniences. Examples include palm sugar, various types of processed cassava, spice blends, herbs and local fruits and vegetables. Ayu and her team are leaving no stone unturned to document all of these, as well as recipes and the cooking utensils made by Buton craftspeople. “We plan to publish the findings of our research in a book,” explains Ayu. Previously the team has published books about the culinary and architectural riches of Bali. With Ayu and her team, Edi takes us directly to Buton Palace Fortress. At three o’clock, there is a haroa ceremony in one of the residents’ homes. The haroa ceremony is held by citizens of Baubau to give thanks when entering a good month in the Islamic calendar. It takes place several times a year, including the ceremony being held now to celebrate Maludu or the birth of the Prophet Muhammad. The ceremony is led by a lébé, or imam, who reads some holy verses as a way to give blessings. The room is covered in red, white and black fabric, which are the sacred colours of the Buton Kingdom. Around the lébé sit a circle of men and in the middle of them are trays of food. Etje, the home owner, says that she has prepared 30 trays. On each tray there is fried banana (loka), fried yam (kaowi-owi), fried doughballs