Garuda Indonesia Colours Magazine February 2018 | Page 94
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Travel | Baubau
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I arrive at Betoambari Airport in Baubau just before midday after
a flight from Makassar that took less than an hour. If travelling by
sea, the distance between the two cities can be covered in half a day.
The island of Buton has various elements
that are as attractive as the Wakatobi islands.
The geological features of the two are similar:
they both have long, calm beaches, some good
dive spots, caves and natural pools. Buton
also has highlands where tropical rainforests,
rivers and waterfalls can be found.
As the largest city on Buton, Baubau is better
known as a stopover point. Since ancient
times, this city has been an important hub
connecting the eastern and western islands
of Indonesia. Baubau, with its strategic
position, was the gateway for sailors and
explorers to enter the Maluku peninsula,
the islands of West Papua and the Lesser
Sunda Islands to the south.
My guide Edi Djufri collects me at the
arrivals gate and we drive straight to the city
centre, to Wameo Market. Edi introduces me
to a group of architects and researchers from
Bali who are documenting the various local
commodities that are sold at Baubau’s
traditional markets.
Ayu Gayatri Kresna, the research coordinator,
explains that there are still many high-quality
ingredients in the traditional markets of
Baubau and that they haven’t all been
replaced by modern conveniences. Examples
include palm sugar, various types of
processed cassava, spice blends, herbs and
local fruits and vegetables. Ayu and her team
are leaving no stone unturned to document
all of these, as well as recipes and the cooking
utensils made by Buton craftspeople.
“We plan to publish the findings of our
research in a book,” explains Ayu. Previously
the team has published books about the
culinary and architectural riches of Bali.
With Ayu and her team, Edi takes us directly
to Buton Palace Fortress. At three o’clock,
there is a haroa ceremony in one of the
residents’ homes. The haroa ceremony is held
by citizens of Baubau to give thanks when
entering a good month in the Islamic
calendar. It takes place several times a year,
including the ceremony being held now to
celebrate Maludu or the birth of the Prophet
Muhammad. The ceremony is led by a lébé, or
imam, who reads some holy verses as a way
to give blessings. The room is covered in red,
white and black fabric, which are the sacred
colours of the Buton Kingdom.
Around the lébé sit a circle of men and in the
middle of them are trays of food. Etje, the
home owner, says that she has prepared 30
trays. On each tray there is fried banana
(loka), fried yam (kaowi-owi), fried doughballs