Garuda Indonesia Colours Magazine February 2018 | Page 84
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Travel | Kumano Kodo
Japanese pilgrims at the Kumano
Hayatama Taisha shrine.
Probably the most popular section of the Kumano Kodo is an 8km
trek along the main Nakahechi route. It begins at the Hosshinmon-oji
shrine, one of the most important sites on the trail network.
Time-honoured triumvirate
Probably the most popular section of the Kumano
Kodo is an 8km trek along the main Nakahechi
route. It begins at the Hosshinmon-oji shrine,
one of the most important sites on the trail
network. Marking the outermost entrance
into the divine precincts of Kumano Hongu
Taisha, it once bore witness to poetry parties,
traditional gagaku (ancient Imperial Court
music) dancing and other religious events
designed to entertain local deities.
In the past, pilgrims arriving at Kumano
Hongu Taisha would travel by boat down
the Kumano-gawa River to reach the next grand
shrine, the equally striking Kumano Hayatama
Taisha, which sits at the confluence of the river
and the Pacific Ocean, near Shingu city. From
there it is a short walk to the last of the Kumano
Kodo’s triumvirate of grand shrines,
the Kumano Nachi Taisha.
“I think it’s pretty clear why the Nachi Taisha
is situated here,” says local monk Ryoei Takagi
with a smile, as he turns towards the Nachi
Falls, a 133m-high cascade that forms a hugely
impressive backdrop to the shrine. “Through
our worship we express our gratitude to the
waterfall, for its life energy. We still worship
many waterfalls in this area.”
Back to the future
Legs buried deep in soggy mud, Yukimi
Nakamine takes a well-earned break from
planting rice seedlings in her front garden,
which also happens to be a semi-submerged
paddy field. It’s a laborious task, but the
energetic young Japanese woman isn’t
complaining. In fact, she’s relishing life
in the Kumano countryside.
“I carried out what we call a ‘U-turn’ in
Japan,” she explains with a shy smile. “I left
5 Senses – Taste
CAFÉ BOCU
Café Bocu is a macrobiotic
restaurant in Chikatsuyu village,
on the Nakahechi route of the
Kumano Kodo. The café and
guesthouse, housed in
a renovated farmhouse
surrounded by paddy fields,
serves up a range of healthy
and delicious local produce, and
makes a great place to relax
and enjoy the atmosphere of
this rural village.
Café Bocu adalah restoran
dengan menu makrobiotik di Desa
Chikatsuyu, di rute Nakahechi,
Kumano Kodo. Menempati sebuah
farmhouse yang sudah direnovasi
dan dikelilingi oleh sawah, kafe
plus penginapan ini menyajikan
beragam produk lokal yang sehat
dan lezat, dan sangat cocok
untuk bersantai dan menikmati
suasana pedesaan.