Garuda Indonesia Colours Magazine February 2018 | Page 83

Travel | Kumano Kodo
Widely regarded as the birthplace of Japanese culture
and spirituality, the Kumano region has been held sacred
for centuries. Despite its proximity to Japan’s second city,
this is still one of the most mystical areas of the country.
onsen as often as I can, especially when I’ve
had a long day on my feet.”
Abode of the gods
Widely regarded as the birthplace of Japanese
culture and spirituality, the Kumano region has
been held sacred for centuries. Despite its
proximity to Japan’s second city, this is still
one of the most mystical areas of the country.
5 Senses – Sight
NACHI-NO-HI
MATSURI
Held every year on July 14, the
spectacular Nachi-no-Hi Matsuri
(Nachi Fire Festival) is one of the three
largest fire festivals of Japan. It
involves 12 vermilion mikoshi (portable
shrines) and 12 huge pine torches –
the shrines are said to be filled with
the spirits of deities and are purified
by the fire of the torches.
Diadakan setiap tanggal 14 Juli,
Nachi-no-Hi Matsuri (Festival Api
Nachi) adalah satu dari tiga festival api
paling spektakuler di Jepang. Festival
ini menampilkan 12 obor besar dan 12
mikoshi (kuil kecil yang ditandu)
berwarna terang, yang dipercaya diisi
oleh roh para dewa dan disucikan
dengan api obor.
“Even today many Japanese refer to this region
as the ‘abode of the gods’,” explains Brad Towle,
an amiable Canadian expat working for the
Tanabe City Kumano Tourism Bureau. “The
focus of worship here is the Kumano Kodo’s
three grand shrines: Kumano Hongu Taisha,
Kumano Hayatama Taisha and Kumano
Nachi Taisha. Each shrine has its origins
in the worship of local nature and
natural wonders.”
After years of decline and relative obscurity,
the award of UNESCO status reinvigorated
the Kumano Kodo. Today its serpentine
trail network comprises over 300km of well-
signposted paths and moss-clad steps, which
transport hikers of all abilities through forest
and field, village and town. Reaching the three
grand shrines may be the ultimate goal, but
stopping by at various oji (subsidiary shrines)
and viewpoints, and trekking through the
Kumano region’s stunning landscapes,
is a soul-enriching experience in itself.
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“When people think of Japan, they tend to think
of bullet trains, towering skyscrapers and
overcrowded subways,” says Matt Malcomson,
founder of Oku Japan, a UK-headquartered travel
agency offering popular guided and self-guided
tours throughout Japan. “The idyllic scenery,
tranquil shrines and soothing onsen of Kumano
naturally come as something of a surprise.”
Spring break
Hot springs are an integral part of Japan, not
only in terms of the country’s geographical
make-up, but also in the lifestyle of the Japanese.
They have long been linked with the Shinto
religion and its respect for nature, with pilgrims
on the Kumano Kodo frequently using them for
purification purposes.
“Onsen are a pillar of Japanese culture combining
pleasure and purity,” explains Philip Beech, the
Nagoya-based founder of the popular Japan Visitor
website. “You can still see this on the Kumano
Kodo today, with many visitors to shrines rinsing
their mouths and hands before entering.”
Yunomine Onsen is a quaint collection of
guesthouses and hot springs nestling in the
small Yunomine valley. In the heart of the
Kumano region, this is one of the most tranquil
and authentic places to sample onsen culture.
“People come to Yunomine because of the
healing powers of the hot water,” says Brad
Towle. “They bathe in it and breathe in the
vapours. They even cook in it.”
Indeed, just down the creek from Tsuboyu is the
Yuzutsu public cooking ‘basin’, where locals boil
up spinach and bamboo shoots. Onsen tamago
– or hot-spring eggs – are a delicacy, and take
about 10 minutes of sulphurous steaming.
It’s a memorable, cheap and completely
carbon-neutral breakfast.