Garuda Indonesia Colours Magazine August 2016 | Page 121

Travel | Brunei 117 © Jay Tundall Brunei’s most recognisable landmark – the Sultan Omar Ali Saifuddin Mosque. Friendly vendors at a local produce market. struck by their warmth and guilelessness. We also had the chance to visit a family in the village and get a glimpse of their over-water lifestyle. We continued along the river, beyond the city to the surrounding mudflats and mangroves. I was disappointed that it was high tide, since I’d been told that at low tide the area was crawling with crocodiles. We did, however, see several troupes of proboscis monkeys, with their distinctive squashed and trunk-like noses – each group heralded by one male with his harem of females and babies. These endangered creatures are still relatively common here and in Brunei’s national parks, along with a rich array of other exotic flora and fauna. Blanketed by pristine rainforest, many of the parks are criss-crossed with elevated walkways so you can immerse yourself in the canopy and discover its natural wonders. That evening, I made my way to the city’s night market. Though not sprawling, like many I’ve been to, Pasar Gadong was extremely clean (this was becoming a theme), and I was surprised how appetising the food looked. Fresh, vibrant fruits and vegetables lay alongside thick cuts of lamb, grilled fish, sausages, beef with noodles, satays and other local dishes, and there was even one stand selling burgers Brunei-style. Once again though, my strongest impression was of the vendors’ easy charm and wide smiles as I approached them to sample their wares. Arguably the reason for the pervasive happiness of the people of Brunei is the country’s social system. It’s a good one – with no income tax, fuel at 30 cents a litre, free medical care and significant housing subsidies – plenty of reasons to smile, you might say. But, perhaps it is the fact that despite their city being among the cleanest I’ve visited, and their being surrounded by gorgeous natural rainforest, they are largely left alone. As a country with an undeserved bad reputation, it is avoided by visitors looking for the flashy bars and nightlife of more obvious Asian destinations, which means mass tourism hasn’t taken hold or been allowed to make the changes it usually does. In turn then, the people of Brunei are at liberty to be genuinely friendly and welcoming to those visitors who do venture in, revealing the real charm of this place – the people. 5 Senses – Sight SMILING FACES Brunei conjures a certain picture in your imagination, with a skyline punctured by domes and spires. But besides that most postcard-perfect and iconic of landmarks, the Sultan Omar Ali Saifuddin Mosque, and beyond the charms of the Istana Nurul Iman, which can only be glimpsed from afar, the real star attractions in Brunei are the faces of its people. Everywhere you look, young and old greet you with genuine warmth and ear-to-ear grins.   Mendengar kata Brunei, gambaran yang muncul dalam imajinasi adalah cakrawala yang dihiasi kubah dan menara masjid. Namun di samping objek-objek wisatanya yang ikonis dan indah, seperti Masjid Sultan Omar Ali Saifuddin, dan pesona Istana Nurul Iman, yang hanya bisa dilihat sekilas dari kejauhan, yang paling menarik dari Brunei adalah wajah rakyatnya. Ke mana pun Anda pergi, orang-orang tua dan muda akan menyambut Anda dengan kehangatan yang tulus dan senyuman lebar.