116 Travel | Brunei
© Jay Tundall
I didn ’ t know what to expect of the tiny oil-rich sultanate of Brunei Darussalam . Online reviews noted a country that was ‘ no fun ’, but beyond that I had few preconceptions of the destination , which just happened to be a convenient stop on a journey from Sabah to Bangkok .
Having arrived in Bandar Seri Begawan late at night , I woke early to venture into town and find out what Brunei was all about . As the city unfolded before me , I recognised in it some essence of Singapore – not the downtown Singapore we all think of , with its towering skyscrapers and designer shopping , but rather its tranquil and immaculately clean suburbs . The Islamic influence is notable in the architecture , with colourful mosques peeking out through the skyline , and in the traditional dress of the men and the women sporting headscarves . During my research , I had noted , among the warnings that there was little to get excited about , a distinct lack of photos of Bruneians online . It became , therefore , a goal of mine to meet and photograph as many people as I could .
Our first stop was at Jame ’ asr Hassanil Bolkiah Mosque , the largest in the country , built to commemorate the 25 th anniversary of the Sultan ’ s reign . It was impressive , with large blocks of marble incorporated into the structure . However , without a doubt , Brunei ’ s most recognisable landmark is the Sultan Omar Ali Saifuddin Mosque . The most striking element – besides the abundant use of gold which coats its huge dome – was a life-sized reproduction of the ceremonial floating barge that sits in the waters in front of the mosque . Completed only six decades ago , this mosque is known worldwide as a symbol of modern Islamic architecture , uniting Mughal techniques with Italian styles . Though it isn ’ t possible to visit the Sultan ’ s residence , a wander around the Royal Regalia Centre provides an interesting glimpse into his life and the country ’ s culture . On display are chariots from his Silver Jubilee , elaborate jewellery and displays re-enacting key moments from the Sultan ’ s coronation , which was clearly a key part in the country ’ s history .
After a morning of sightseeing , we made a stop for lunch and enjoyed a delicious spread of spicy Malay-style beef rendang and creamy nasi lemak at a local restaurant , and then headed to the market – which was overflowing with fresh vegetables , fruit and dried fish products . I always find the markets to be a great place for encounters with the locals , and this was no exception . The vendors and shoppers here were remarkably friendly , with wide smiles and none of the hassle and haggle you often find in markets where tourists are perhaps more common .
We spent the afternoon on the river , speeding downstream in a water taxi to the Kampong Ayer Water Village . With a population of just under 40,000 people and nearly 30km of footbridges linking smaller villages within the area to one another , this is certainly not a tiny development . When I saw a group of students getting dropped off at their floating school , we went over to say hello . Judging by their reactions , we were among the first foreigners ever to do so . They smiled for photos , clearly excited by the novelty of our visit , and I was once again