Garuda Indonesia Colours Magazine April 2017 | Page 104

102
Travel | Pekanbaru
The Siak River, Pekanbaru.
1
The Siak River, still and quiet without a ripple, sits on the
edge of a city once known as Senapelan. For centuries trade
ships carrying commodities and natural resources from the
island of Sumatra would dock along this river. It is a river tightly
entwined with trade and the power of the kings of bygone eras.
Today, the city goes by the name of Pekanbaru,
capital of Riau – one of Indonesia’s richest
provinces, with income from a wealth of natural
resources. Over the past decade, Pekanbaru has
become one of Sumatra’s fastest growing cities.
We start our road trip driving in the dark
to explore Sumatra, where the roads grow
increasingly quiet and the temperature cools.
Above us, a star-studded sky and a glowing
moon hang low. Shortly after, rubber and
palm oil plantations come into view, two
commodities that have helped to change
the face of Sumatra. At night, the forest
seems unmoved.
We stop at the quiet Muara Takus village
in Riau’s Kampar district. A traditional
gate marks our arrival, and I walk past an
unlocked portal where stacks of centuries-old
stones stand tall, enveloped in early-morning
silence. The yellow- and brown-brick Muara
Takus Temple points to the sky above the
canopy of the surrounding expansive
plantation. The temple complex comprises
the Candi Tua, Candi Bungsu, Candi Mahligai
and Palangka. A few other structures stand by,
waiting their turn for careful restoration.
The sun begins to rise as I leave the temple,
and after a rocky three-hour car ride, I make
it to scorching-hot Pekanbaru. The last time
I set foot in this city was 12 years ago, and I
barely recognise it today. Signs of change are
everywhere. Its streets are wide and crowded,
almost like a metropolis, lined with big
government offices, luxury hotels, malls and
other shopping centres, and restaurants
offering endless culinar