RESTORATION
30
Thread the flare-nut end into the wheel cylinder, being careful not
to cross-thread it. Snug it up with a tubing wrench. Repeat the
job on the other side, and you’re ready to open the bleeder valve,
just above the line, and begin bleeding the hydraulic system. Start
with the right rear (farthest from the master cylinder). Open the
valve and let gravity begin to fill the cylinder. Keep an eye on your
reservoir level on the firewall. When fluid steadily trickles from the
bleeder valve, close it and have an assistant pump the brake pedal
several times, holding it all the way down on the last pump. Open
the bleeder valve and repeat until you have a steady stream of fluid
with no bubbles.
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These drums were uncut originals. Both were in good shape, even
with the unbonded passenger-side shoes. They needed only a
minimal surfacing and a little quality time in the bead blaster for
rust removal. Cast into the edge of the drum (inset) is its machinable
limit — 9.060 inches. Once past that, there’s not enough metal left
to operate safely, so the drum must be replaced. This is not only
good sense; it’s law.
32
SOURCES
NPD FLORIDA
(352) 861-8700 • (800) 874-7595 toll free
www.npdlink.com
ORLANDO MUSTANG
(407) 688-1966 • www.orlandomustang.com
Once de-rusted in the bead blaster, the drums were painted with
Por-15’s Metal Mask, a very tough coating that approximates the
look of raw iron and is not UV sensitive. This will keep that factoryfresh look for years. Cast Blast is a good spray-can alternative.
Once installed, the wheel keeps the drum in place, so these clips
are unnecessary. But this is a restoration job, so we’re putting
them back. Maybe years from now some tough show judge will
bum out that he couldn’t ding us for five points because they’re
missing.
68 FOXMustangMagazine.com