RESTORATION
7
Next, remove the shoe hold-down by holding the pin from the
back side. Gripping the hold-down with pliers or specialized tool,
push inward; then while holding it in, rotate it 90 degrees in either
direction, and pull it off. Remove the spring and pin, too. Repeat
for the rear shoe.
9
With the shoes removed, we’ll remove the wheel cylinder next.
Start by removing the line connection. A flare-nut wrench works
best, as it’s the least likely to slip. The nut is supposed to turn
freely and independently of the hydraulic line, but older lines often
corrode together causing the line to rotate with the flare nut and
twisting the line apart. Penetrating oil like WD-40 or BB Blaster
can help, but if the line is sticking, it’s probably time to replace the
lines, too.
58 FOXMustangMagazine.com
8
Pull the shoes off the backing plate. A third spring still connects
the shoes at the bottom, and the parking brake cable is still
connected to the rear shoe, so you can’t pull it all the way off
just yet. The front shoe can easily be worked free; the rear is
disconnected from the parking brake arm by removing a clip. Save
the clip. You’ll need it later.
10
Two 12mm bolts hold the wheel cylinder to the backing plate.
They’re so rusty in this picture, they’re hard to see, but they’re
there. Hit ’em with penetrating oil and work the bolts back and
forth with a six-point socket if they’re being stubborn. A couple of
well placed hammer blows can help break them loose, too.