Headlights on a Fox-body are
commonly replaced with cheap
reproductions, so check the
bottom of the lenses for a
Ford logo.
All OEM glass in a Fox
was made by Carlite,
with labels in the front
and rear glass.
bottom of the A-pillars, visible in the corners of the
windshield frame. A worn-out car will show plenty of
cracking.
Check the doors for sagging. They should open and
close without great effort. The gap between the door and
quarter-panel should be even and flush when closed.
minimum. They link the front and rear subframes
together. As long as they are professionally installed,
they’re a great addition and practically mandatory to
retain chassis integrity.
Control arms front and rear are often ignored over
time and are the cause of many rattles, squeaks, and
annoying noises. Check them even if the car has low
miles and isn’t driven regularly.
Just as important are the chassis areas where the
control arms mount. Fox Mustangs are notorious for
damaged torque boxes if driven “spiritedly.” These can
be repaired better than new, but again, they’re a clue as
to how the car was previously driven.
If the shocks/struts are original and you plan on driving it, budget for a new set. The car will feel like new.
Keep the OEM stuff on the shelf for safekeeping or the
next owner, but new shocks and springs will reward
you with a much-improved ride over old parts.
CHASSIS/SUSPENSION
Even at stock horsepower levels, over time the Fox
chassis will flex. You’ll need to look closely to check for
chassis damage.
Subframe connectors drastically improve the structural rigidity of the Fox platform, keeping “flex” to a
The addition of subframe connectors to
a Fox-body is the
one modification
that Performance
Autosport is never
angry to see.
This 23-year-old bushing had only 19,000 miles on it. As expected,
it’s completely disintegrated.
Over time, bushings become
brittle and disintegrate, resulting in
a worn-out feel, clunky ride, and
sloppy steering.
40 FOXMustangMagazine.com
Inspect the pinchwelds (bottom of the rockers) and
subframes for distortion or crushed areas from the car
previously being jacked or lifted improperly.
Check the inner fender aprons under the hood for
wrinkles — damage from past accidents. Look at the
radiator support for straightness or evidence of repairs
like waves or weld marks.
Now we get into the all-important rust inspection.
Obviously, a northern Rust Belt car will need a closer
look than one from Arizona, but any 20-year-old vehicle