Fish Sniffer Issue 3918 | Page 4

VOL.39 • ISS. 18 > Hunting knives, pocket knives and fillet knives. Here we see a selection of author Cal Kellogg’s knives and sharpening tools, including stones and steel. Get That Knife Sharp! ^ A USMC Ka-Bar, waterproof matches and a knife sharpener are centerpieces of Cal Kellogg’s back country survival gear. The KFBK OUTDOOR SHOW # 1 Rated Outdoor Radio Show for 26 years! with your host Bob Simms Fishing • Hunting • Destinations Conservation • History Dedicated to the Northern California Outdoorsman BOB SIMMS < A dull knife isn’t only inefficient, it can be dangerous, so it makes sense to keep all your knives and cutting tools keenly honed. ^ Stones don’t work well when dry. Some stones are best treated with water, while you’ll want to employ a quality honing oil if you opt to use an oil stone. 3819 Listen Every Saturday Morning from 5 am to 8am CALIFORNIA’S LONGEST RUNNING OUTDOOR TALK SHOW! HOW TO... FISH SNIFFER HOW – TO by Cal Kellogg August 21, 2020 A Keenly Honed Blade… A dull knife is a dangerous knife.”… When I was a youngster this old saying confused me. In theory, how could a dull knife be more dangerous than a sharp knife? In practice the answer is simple. With a sharp knife you can perform jobs with minimum pressure and maximum control. A dull knife requires more pressure and it’s that increased pressure and resulting loss of control that causes accidents. The harder you have to push a blade to make it cut the higher the possibility that you’ll slip and cut yourself. This is just one of many reasons to keep your fishing, hunting, kitchen and utility blades keenly honed and razor sharp… These days I meet quite a few sportsmen packing high-end knives that have no idea how to sharpen a blade once it dulls. I’ve met quite a few guys over the years that are so intimidated by the prospect of sharpening a knife that they continue to buy new knives when the one they are currently using becomes dull. Other guys, not wanting to purchase new steel all the time actually send their knives back to the factory for sharpening. Both of these scenarios seem absolutely crazy to me. When I’m using a knife heavily it may need to be sharpened daily. When I process a deer in the field I’ll sharpen my knife at least twice before I’m finished. You can’t get anything done if your knife is back at the factory getting sharpened. Growing up I was fortunate to find myself in the company several old timers that knew the secrets of knife sharpening. This isn’t to say that they taught me to sharpen. They would just shake their heads and give you the stink eye if your knife wasn’t keenly sharp. And of course, I saw how they sharpened their knives using Arkansas stones. By the time, I hit my teens I was obsessed with knife sharpening. I picked up a small 3.5 x 1.5 inch hard white Arkansas stone and a can of WD-40 at Ace Hardware and went to work on my pocketknife. Sharpening a blade using a stone looks pretty simple, but looks are deceiving. When I first started, it seemed my efforts were actually dulling the blade rather than sharpening it. Practice makes perfect when it comes to using a sharpening stone. Gradually I got that pocketknife shaving sharp and I learned to replicate the process. These days I can sharpen a knife using a variety of tools including things as simple as a leather belt, sand paper or even a strip of corrugated cardboard. With a little practice, you can do the same and the old timers will smile down on you! Let’s Sharpen! There are like 10 million gadgets you can buy to sharpen a blade and the vast majority of them work. I know that doesn’t help you much but hang with me. In my experience, there isn’t a one tool sharpening solution. Instead I rely on a few different tools that represent my sharpening system. What I’m going to do here is outline the system that works for me. Two different stones are at the heart of my sharpening system. One is a soft/hard 6 x 2 inch Arkansas stone from the Robert Larson Company. It’s a quality stone and it cost less than $25 complete with a wooden storage box. 5 The other stone is an EZE Lap 6 x 2-inch fine diamond stone. Beyond these stones, I utilize an old leather pistol belt, a Hunter Honer sharpener that makes use of crossed steel rods and an EZE Lap fine Diamond Hone. The Diamond Hone is basically a 6-inch piece of plastic with a ¾ x 2-inch strip of diamond grit attached to it. Here’s how the system works along with some philosophy. Think back to grammar school. When you first learned to do math, you did it long hand without a calculator, because hand calculations are the corner stone of everything to follow. When it comes to knife sharpening using a stone is the place to begin. This is where you learn the rules and develop your distinct style of working the steel. What I found when I began was that finding the correct blade angle in relation to the stone was difficult and my hands felt awkward. Yet as I continued to practice my hands developed confidence (muscle memory) and the pocketknife’s blade got broken in. Suddenly I could “feel” the correct groove and the blade made a sweet steady hum as I moved it along the oiled stone. That feeling and sound are just like riding the proverbial bicycle. Once you get the feel you never forget. Practice makes perfect! With the ability to sharpen a blade using an Arkansas stone in my back pocket, here is how I utilize my system. When I get a new knife I’m seldom happy with the factory set blade angle. In my opinion factory blade angles are almost always set to steeply. Once a knife starts losing its factory sharpness I break out my large diamond stone and go to work establishing the 12 to 15-degree angle that I prefer. The diamond stone is much harder than steel and it removes metal quickly and efficiently. With the diamond don’t add any water or oil to the stone. Just clean the surface regularly with a dry plastic scrub brush. My fishing knives get the shallowest angle while my hunting blades are set steeper. The shallower the angle of your blade the sharper it will become and the easier it will cut, but it will also dull quicker and the edge won’t be super tough in resisting nicks and chips. Steeper angles don’t get as sharp, but they retain their edge better and are more resistant to chipping when cutting wood or when coming up against hard bone. Once I get the edge angle I want on the fine diamond, the blade will be reasonable sharp. Polishing the edge will make it super sharp. I start by putting a nickel size drop of Hunter Honer honing oil on the soft side of my Arkansas stone. The oil keeps the microscopic fissures in the stone from filling with steel waste. After spreading the oil, I start working the blade. At first the blade with feel rough against the stone, but as you work it gets smoother. Soon you’ll be able to “feel” the angle and the blade will be making that sweet hum. About this time, you’ll note that the oil is becoming dark. It’s steel you’ve removed from the blade that you’re seeing suspended in the oil. Now it’s time to flip the stone and go to work on the hard side. Once again, you’ll want to apply honing oil. The edge will feel rough against CONTINUED ON PG 13