Extol February-March 2019 | Page 20

EXPERIENCE Cox’s Hot Chicken & Sports Chicken, sports, beer, memories of South Side and more BY D. TODD APPLEGATE | PHOTOS BY CHRISTIAN WATSON Normally, I try not to set expectations when I review a restaurant, especially a new one. But with my latest assignment, Cox’s Hot Chicken & Sports in New Albany, this mindset was challenged. First, I knew it would be a struggle to walk into an establishment that, as of November, occupies the space that was once home to the iconic South Side Inn Bar and Restaurant. Second, being a lover of fried chicken, especially hot chicken and specifically Nashville hot chicken, with “hot chicken” in Cox’s name my taste buds had some preconceived and anticipatory notions as well. Thus, on a recent Wednesday for lunch, it was 18 EXTOL : FEBRUARY/MARCH 2019 impossible to enter Cox’s without reminiscing of the great food and fond memories from the legendary South Side, a mainstay in the downtown New Albany dining scene for years. (Most recently this building housed Big Four Burgers and District 22 Pizzeria.) occupies the back wall of the former dining room. It felt welcoming and familiar but refurbished with a new look and exciting vibe. Interestingly, I found that the general floor plan of South Side had been maintained as I remembered. I felt like I had stepped back in time and the large “South Side Bar and Restaurant” sign in the middle dining room was a pleasant reminder that Cox’s appreciated the history also. For those of us that exited with tray in hand to the right from the South Side cafeteria line, a full-service sports bar now I love fried chicken, always have, and am constantly searching for good fried chicken. Fortunately or unfortunately, fried chicken prepared in a cast iron skillet, the ideal method, in my opinion, tends to be the barometer by which all chicken is measured. Pleasantly appeased of my first concern and nostalgia aside, it was time to focus on the chicken. But chicken has evolved over the years, and there are now many varieties to choose from and