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murder of the building’s original architect, Francis Rattenbury. More opportunities to indulge in fact, and fiction, lie a few blocks further east at the contemporary Vancouver Public Library. WEST END Embraced by sandy beaches along English Bay, Stanley Park and the Coal Harbour waterfront, this character-filled neighbourhood has ample community spirit. Bustling Denman Street attracts foodies and fashionistas. Tree-lined side streets harbour heritage buildings and quiet, leafy gardens. Walk west into the wildlife-rich 400 hectares (1,000 acres) of Stanley Park. Head east into quirky Davie Village where all things LGBTQ reign supreme, from rainbow flags to hot-pink garbage cans, in colourful bars and clubs, at the Qmunity centre and during the fabulous annual Pride Parade. West End beaches are the place for people watching and for ringside seats at the annual Honda Celebration of Light fireworks. CHINATOWN Enter Canada’s largest Chinatown through its ornate Millennium Gate, the emblem of the neighbourhood’s journey through time, and follow the lead of the Chinese-English street signs and dragon-decked lamp posts along Pender, Keefer and Hastings streets into a world where East meets West and old and new harmoniously coexist. The air is redolent with seductive aromas; the people a delightful mix of cultures; the architecture an eclectic mirror of Chinese tradition, Vancouver history and urban rejuvenation. Open-front markets beckon with pyramids of fresh fruit, and mind-boggling varieties of greens and dried fish. Whatever ails you, the herbalist will mix you a cure, and the tea specialist will recommend the perfect brew to restore your spirits. Snack or feast your way through the multifarious delights of Chinese cuisine at the summer night market or in buzzing restaurants. Browse colourful displays of trinkets, treasures, Chinese-inspired fashion and kitchenware. Focus your energy on historic bricks and mortar, like the photogenic Sam Kee sliver of a building (1913) or the headquarters of the Chinese Benevolent Association (1907), organizer of the annual Chinese New Year Parade. Relax in the timeless oasis of Dr. Sun Yat-Sen Classical Chinese Garden (1986), named for the revolutionary hero. GASTOWN Hip meets heritage in Vancouver’s oldest neighbourhood (1867). Over 140 late 19th- and early 20thcentury buildings of this National Historic Site have found life in the present tense as designer boutiques, cutting-edge restaurants, cheerful souvenir shops and art galleries. No wonder this picturesque destination was recently voted fourth of the world’s 50 most stylish neighbourhoods by New York’s Complex magazine. Put on your tourist hat in cobbled Maple Tree Square, site of Vancouver’s first saloon; in Gaoler’s Mews, site of the first lockup; and in Blood Alley. Take a picture The Vancouver Art Gallery’s Georgia Street side E SS E N T I A L VA N CO U V ER 20 16 / 1 7   67