Entrigue Magazine December 2014 November 2013 | Page 12
Floral abstractions, geometric
contrasts, precise cuts and layered
silhouettes – the S/S 2014 ODEEH
collection expertly builds a bridge
between the design and style of
constructivism to the glamour of art
deco. The different manifestations of
these two styles are reconciled by
the designers Jörg Ehrlich and Otto
Drögsler with the typical ODEEH
hallmarks. They create a modern look
that emphasises the tension between
the precision of art deco and the
eclectic of constructivism.
As far as the patterns and
structures are concerned, flowing silk
prints meet strict tailoring, and
geometric shapes meet floral patterns:
striking jacquard structures, prints on
silk and mesh and honeycomb structures emphasise the other’s strengths.
The play with prints and patterns is
Designers Otto Drögsler and Jörg Ehrlich
never too omnipresent: in most cases
it is revealed only on closer inspection
– like the interpretation of camouflage
elements in small, dark floral designs.
The tailoring reprises the
The contrasts are continued
severity and geometry: tops in
throughout the entire collection: relief graphic egg and rectangular
effects on jacquards versus flowing
shapes dominate – but are softened
twill and silk structures, hairy mohair in combination with flowing shorts
on delicate tulle – and the repetition of and swinging skirt silhouettes. The
graphic shapes, evenly coloured
proportions and silhouettes create
surfaces and floral patterns in a 3D
a contrasting pole to the structural
look.
aspect. In contrast to the precision used for the composition of colours
and prints, the looks are never precisely constructed – the silhouettes
All in all, the colour schemes
are very relaxed. What looks like a traditional pinstripe blazer upon first
are more subdued than in previous
sight functions as a visual anchor for the playful layering of different
seasons. Warm colours like burnt
silk prints.
orange and pink contrast with camouflage tones. A classic navy meets
For the first time ODEEH cooperates with the label Lunettes
summer darks like dark green and
Kollektion. The design of the sunglasses is dominated by expressive
olive tones.
forms, too: Passionate expression is reflected in the diva-alike shape of
the glasses, a certain structure in the emphasis of the eyebrow line.
With collection No. 9 ODEEH is continuing its characteristic
signature style of precision cuts, prints and structures and flowing
versus sculptural silhouettes – remaining inimitably ODEEH.
12 Entrigue Magazine | November 2013