EatInEatOut Summer 2015 - Page 52

inspired meal to come. Grown specifically for the restaurant, the assortment of autumn greens – though novel to most diners - offers a familiar taste of summer. Slightly bitter, they are tamed by the bright maple pear vinaigrette, crunchy pumpkin seed brittle, delicate slivers of radish, and lardon rendered so perfectly they melt in your mouth. Next, fritters of butternut squash and rabbit arrive. Crisp yet tender, the sweet squash accentuates the lean rabbit while the freshness of the dill, yogurt and watercress cut the fattiness. We instantly craved more. Fished off the coast of Cape Breton’s Neil’s Harbour, the sweet snow crab gratin commanded attention. While the salt baked potatoes now butter-laden and smothered in aged cheddar Mornay could easily have overwhelmed the delicate crab, it was plentiful enough to stand against the richness. Set against the backdrop of raging wind and near freezing temperatures outsde, it was comfort food at its finest. orange color of the farm fresh free range eggs was unmistakable, their richness second to none. Served alongside Nova Scotian roasted coffee or tea made of lemongrass, mint, lemon balm and calendula from the backyard garden, it was the perfect conclusion to a perfect meal. Unlike other acclaimed restaurants, there is no hustle and bustle. The pace is comforting, homey. Even the music is welcoming. Both modern and eclectic, there are moments you can hear Picard singing along. Service is flawless with wine and water refilled seamlessly. Yet Barbara is personal, akin to an old friend. She’s picture perfect of Cape Breton’s famous hospitality. From the all local drink menu, a possibility now with a burgeoning craft beer scene and growing wine industry, to the handmade chocolates as a final thank you, it’s the small touches that elevate the experience further. Tender herb crusted pork, grilled celeriac, spinach, squash puree, rich brown butter and but a bite of brussel sprouts offered the near full diners an even richer course. Tantalizing the palate with elements of sweet, salty, earthy, nutty, and umami, it was the embodiment of fall. With a near sold out first year, it’s clear both the community and visitors alike have embraced the intimate restaurant as their own. With a new seasonal menu arriving monthly, a visit to The Bite House is much more than a meal; it’s the expression of everything that is special about Cape Breton. It’s an experience unlike any other in the province, an invitation to a close friend’s dinner party, a true taste of Nova Scotia. Lastly, the dessert course consisted of a rustic rum tart brûlée, tart crabapple jelly and coarse hazelnut ice cream. The thebitehouse.com 1471 Westside Baddeck Road Baddeck Forks, NS 52 WWW.EATINEATOUT.CA