Eastern Home & Travel September/October 2017 | Page 18

If you are not interested in the lore of the witch
trials, don’t fret. Salem has a lot more to offer,
including unique architecture, maritime history
and some great places to dine and shop. When we
arrived in the city, we immediately set out on a
narrated sightseeing tour offered through Salem
Trolley. The tour gives a good overview of the
city’s history and drove by many of the attractions
we had planned to visit during our stay. Tours last
as little as an hour, or you can knock off several
of your destinations by making a day of it – the
trolley offers hop on-hop off service.
One of our favorite stops was the Peabody Essex
Museum (PEM). Advertised as one of the nation’s
largest museums, it features New England
maritime art, Native American art, Asian art
and quintessential American art. Painters of the
Colonial and Revolutionary era including John
Trumball and Gilbert Stuart as well as contemporary
artists such as Norman Rockwell are part of the
permanent collection. The museum also manages
a number of historic houses and other structures,
such as a 200-year-old Chinese house. Tours of
these historic places may be arranged through the
museum in advance.
Down the street from the PEM is the public art
installation, “What the Birds Know,” from Stickwork
artist Patrick Dougherty. Through the use of tree
saplings, Dougherty creates an art installation that
blends sculpture, architecture and landscape. This
Stickwork creation was constructed in May 2015
through a community engagement process and,
like all his creations, springs from his love of nature.
Sitting just outside the downtown area is the
Salem Maritime National Historic Site. Operated by
the National Park Service, this site pays homage to
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the maritime history of the region. Walk down the
wharf for a great view of Salem Harbor. The light
station at the end of the wharf dates to 1871 and
is the wharf’s only original surviving structure. Be
sure to also check out the replica of the Friendship
of Salem. The original ship was built in 1797 and
made multiple voyages before it was captured
during the War of 1812.
The House of the Seven Gables is a seaside
mansion that is a must visit during your stay in
Salem. Made famous as a result of the novel of
the same name by New England author Nathaniel
Hawthorne, the house dates back to 1668 and
was built by a successful maritime merchant. Also
on-site is the birthplace home of Hawthorne and
other structures that have been moved to the
property that is indicative of colonial New England
architecture.
Take a minute to also walk across the street to the
Ye Olde Pepper Companie. Reportedly it is America’s
oldest candy company, as this confectioner has
been manufacturing candy since 1806. Here, you
can purchase fudge, chocolate truffles and other
traditional items. But, be adventurous and try
something different. We brought home a packet of
peppermint gibralters (famously known as the first
candy made commercially in America) and black
jacks (an old-fashioned molasses stick candy) that
is advertised as all natural, healthful and delicious.
We also thoroughly enjoyed visiting Salem Willows,
a seaside public park that reminds you of the small
amusement parks of yesteryear or a boardwalk-
style setting. You can grab a meal or a snack, pop
into the arcade and play games, or walk along
the waterfront for scenic views of the ocean. For
additional scenery, I recommend a drive along
the Essex Coastal Scenic Byway. We took it from
Salem to Gloucester and the coastal New England
vistas, lighthouses and additional amenities along
the way.
H U
It contains the graves of Gov. Simon Bradstreet,
Chief Justice Benjamin Lynde, Capt. Richard More
(a passenger on the Mayflower), and individuals
associated with the Salem Witch Trials.
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