P H OTO G R A P H Y: S C OT T S U C H M A N
Long known for the supplying the oyster in
Thomas Keller’s signature oysters and pearls dish at The
French Laundry and Per Se, is Island Creek Oyster Farm
in Duxbury, Mass. The farm controls its own product,
from the tiny oyster seeds it grows from brood stock
to setting a freshly shucked mixed dozen in front of a
customer at one of its three company-owned oyster
bars. Based on the success of Island Creek Oyster Bar in
Boston, the company recently opened Row 34 in South
Boston and Portsmouth, N.H., giving them the same
name as a newer, differently grown oyster.
Named for its location on the oyster beds, this
popular brand is grown in trays 18 inches off the
seabed. “Island Creeks live a rough and tumble life
right on the bottom,” says company president Chris
Sherman. “They have a more rugged, round shell and a
really strong salt flavor with a buttery and sweet nose.
Row 34s have a more delicate shell, a more traditional
Cape Cod teardrop shape. There’s a nice accentuated
sweetness and interesting coffee and nutty notes on
top of the vegetal flavors of the Island Creeks.” With
their supply limited, Row 34s are not sold wholesale
by the company to other restaurants; they’re only
available at Island Creek’s own oyster bars, adding to
the cache.
“In many ways,” says Sherman, “we’re trying to
keep pace with the rabid oyster fans and oyster geeks.
We want to deliver the experience they’re looking for.”
That now includes special oyster dinners held at the
farm and Thursday and Friday afternoon boat tours
of the hatchery and oyster beds from May through
September. The $75 tour concludes on a working oyster
barge with all-you-can-eat oysters on the half shell.
Plus a T-shirt that states: “I came. I saw. I slurped.”
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EASTERN HOME & TRAVEL