December 2018 Issue #24 December 2018 Issue #24 CHRISTMAS | Page 20

This silky creation is made with chicken liver, duck fat, cognac, pepper and salt, a fine ba- sic thing executed well and served with fried onions and toasts. Harry’s Loaded Wedge Salad ($12) is text- book steak house tradition, a dense and pearly section of lettuce smothered in chunky and funky blue cheese dressing and scat- tered with bacon, chives and halved cherry tomatoes. It’s a simple ensemble that’s al- ways pleasing when executed at a high level like this: smoky bacon, strong cheese and bright tomato. All steaks are aged at Barberian’s but butch- ered here, thicker options available for all cuts. Everything is grilled over sugar maple charcoal, which burns slow and imparts a lot of flavour. 20