Holiday Trees – Fresh or Fake?
Q: One topic in this month’s Ag in the Classroom lessons was trees and the question came up – Which is better, “Fresh or Fake?”
A: The debate over whether the use of a real tree or an artificial tree is better for the environment continues, especially as the holiday season nears. Real tree growers point out that their product is renewable; each species has its own characteristic odor; they consume carbon dioxide and give off oxygen; they can be recycled; they provide wildlife habitat; and they create jobs in rural America. Artificial trees contain non-biodegradable plastics and possible metal toxins such as lead. Most artificial trees are made in China and must be shipped long distances to the United States. On the other hand, the artificial tree industry points out that their product can be reused and thus saves several real trees from being harvested. The industry goes on to claim that their trees do not need fertilizers or pesticides and do not create a mess or hassle. These are just examples of claims being made by two distinctly different industries. Considering the entire production cycle for real and artificial trees, it is difficult to determine which type of tree is best for the environment, based on scientific-based data.
If you decide to purchase a real tree there are some considerations before you buy. How are you going to set up and care for the tree and t how you will dispose of it? At many farms, attendants shake the dead needles from the tree. This is especially important for species like Scotch pine. Depending on species and age, the inner needles in conifers naturally die. With short-needled trees, such as firs, most of the needles drop to the ground. However, with long-needled trees, such as Scotch pines, the needles become lodged in the branches and, if not removed, continue to fall out during transportation, set up, and subsequent disposal. Shaking the tree eliminates any messiness at set-up. Another service offered by some farms is tree baling. This is particularly important for larger trees. The tree is simply pulled through a cone-shaped device that applies netting or twine. By baling, most trees can be condensed to less than two feet in diameter without damaging the branches. As a result, these baled trees can be easily placed in a car trunk or tied on top of the car and subsequently moved through a door and into the house. The netting can be left on the tree until after it is placed in a stand. This makes it much easier to set up the tree. (NOTE: If you plan to leave the netting on the tree until after it is set up, be sure to flag the best side of the tree before it gets baled, so you can properly position it in the room.)
A tree that has been cut for more than six to eight hours needs to have ½ inch or so cut off of the butt end before you place it in a tree stand and water it. When a tree is cut and the cut left exposed to air, the exposed cells become blocked to water uptake. When recut, the tree is then able to take up water. If you buy a tree, but don’t plan to set it up for a few days or longer, store it in a cool location out of the wind and sun.
When setting up the tree, keep it away from direct sources of heat such as warm-air floor vents, operating wood stoves, fireplaces, hot lights, etc. Lowering the room temperature extends the service life of the tree. Heat makes a tree dry faster than normal. Use only approved ornamental lights that produce low heat. After you have selected a stand that can hold an ample supply of water—at least one quart for each inch of stem diameter—be sure to keep filling it. Be sure to use cool water.