FASHION
B
efore attending to this ironically prescient
Union Jack tabard, a point of order. This
menswear collection is released simultaneously with women’s Resort; most of the items
here are available in gender specific sizing and
are intended to apply to the Faith Connexion faithful of whatever chromosomal combination. Pre
and He are One. Perhaps, it’s true, les hommes
will be less inclined to pick up the frayed olive
shirt with caresses of lace detailing that is in fact
a bodysuit. And equally, maybe their eyes might
be less interested in getting hold of the lace boob
tube than the ladies. Equally, les femmes might
be less interested in the very butchest and biggest
and to-their-eyes possibly reclaimed, but not, suppressed camouflage out wear and cargo pants.
And yet there is no apartness at Faith Connexion:
Wear what you want, if you want it, whatever you
are.
So to the tabard. It was painted by Pisco, a
street artist, and is one of a series of hand-painted
contributions he has made to the collection. It was
delivered before the Brexit result. Others included
a jacket that demanded, “God Love the Queen”
on its back and quivered with hand-cut velvet
fringing at its shoulder. Never Too Much Basics,
a Neapolitan collective, contributed handwritten
detailing on some denim pieces.
This rail is as dense with intense-ingredient pieces as any you’ll see in Paris, and there are 400
buying teams that have made appointments to do
so, so just a few more highlights include: a Dalmatian-print velvet trailing waistcoat, a gold and
peppered trucker gilet, a pulled-apart submariner’s rib knit with tattering and embroidery details
at the shoulder, a huge white tweed field jacket
with more hand-applied embroidery, and a purple
and black tweed “shirt skirt” that made me note:
“Chanel for aspirant anarchists.” Which isn’t a terrible summation.
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