Dec/Jan 2015 Number ninty-five | Page 64

on rye ” and the reuben , filled with house made corned beef , are equally meaty , with the former accompanied by hot mustard aioli igniting a kick of heat .
Chicken n ' gravy is comfort food , but better than you ’ d make at home . Liberally sauced , a scone-like bannock bun soaks up every last drop . For a taste of the lake , the pan-fried pickerel in the shore lunch reigns supreme . Flaky and tender flesh is accented simply by sautéed potatoes , onion and crispy bacon .
Pitt and his team have successfully created an homage to Manitoba cuisine , blending fresh local flavours with homey comfort .
Ripe Bistro is open for lunch Tues-Fri 11 am-2 pm , brunch Sat &
ciao ! reviews
things between bread may be , this neighbourhood eatery is more notable for its revival of one of the staples of the city ’ s dining scene which has dwindled in recent years : the traditional Jewish deli .
Springing from the multicultural hotbed of New York in the early 20th century , delicatessens spread like wildfire over North America , becoming hubs for communities to gather and gab over succulent steaming cuts of meat . With the rise of processed food , such hubs have become rare , and with few members of younger generations taking up the mantle , Winnipeg ’ s deli contingent has shrunk . It is against this current that Sherbrook St Deli owner Jon Hochman has decided to
by an expertly crispy fry , and warm knishes graced with a hearty dollop of sour cream and scallion are other kosher style favourites with the inviting comfort of home cooking .
Sandwiches made with thick slices of City Rye bread are piled high with house cured cuts of meats . The market is a notoriously picky one , made up of deli fanatics who know just what they want , but surely none will find fault with exquisitely marbled and lightly tangy corned beef , or meltingly tender smoked meat accented simply with a layer of mustard . The menu sticks to tradition , and includes the often overlooked specialties pickled tongue and chopped liver .
Bottomless refills of coffee and
Sun 10 am-2 pm , dinner Tues-Sat 5 pm-10 pm , Sun 5 pm-9 pm .
SHERBROOK ST . DELI Neighbourhood . . W Broadway Address . . . . 102 Sherbrook St Phone . . . . . . . 204-615-3354 Entrées . . . . . . .$ 8.75- $ 14.25
Sherbrook Street Delicatessen opened its doors in March of this year , leading the way for Winnipeg ’ s love affair with meaty sandwiches , and the small spot has been bustling ever since . However popular swim , drawing on a family history of kosher style cooking . It ’ s not a cool market , or an easy one – scratch made fare is high cost and labour intensive – but tradition runs deep , and so does Hochman ’ s passion for the delicatessens of yore .
Bucking the trend has paid off , as a wide cross section of the city can now be found crowding through the front door for a taste of tradition . Food is straightforward and comforting , with items like matzah ball soup showing the power of simple ingredients like onions , garlic , and salt to make up more than the sum of their parts . Housemade latkes , golden ropes of potatoes bound housemade soda encourage staying awhile , as do homey Yiddish classics like gribenes , chicken skins fried to a crackling crunch , and schmaltz , the gloriously bad-for-you spread of rendered chicken fat . Indecisive diners can opt for deli staple mish mash soup , a heaping bowl with a little of everything – corned beef , matzah balls , veggies – thrown in .
From photos of Winnipeg landmarks on the wall to sandwiches named after ‘ Peg icons – from Kelekis ’ Jim Pappas ( corned beef ) to Izzy Asper ( beef salami ) – local influence is easy to spot . Manitoba favourites like beet borscht , smoked goldeye , and Imperial cookies find
62 ciao ! / dec / jan / two thousand fifteen