Dec/Jan 2015 Number ninty-five | Page 61

THE MERCHANT KITCHEN Neighbourhood . . . Downtown Address . . . . . . . 314 Donald St Phone . . . . . . . 204-615-2278 Entrées . . . . . . . . . . .$ 12- $ 45
Fusion food is hot right now . In a time of globalization , the borders between culinary cultures have made chefs into pioneers exploring a whole new world of flavour . The Merchant Kitchen is pulling Winnipeg along on its frontier journey , taking downtown ’ s multicultural core by storm with Asian-Latin mash ups not yet seen in our prairie city .
Owner Bobby Mottola and chef Eric Lee of Pizzeria Gusto have built a cohesive menu that matches complementary flavours , creating vibrant dishes that capitalize on the high points of South American and Asian cuisines – spicy , salty , briny , and herbaceous flavours – without crossing into gimmicky territory .
The space itself , set inside the new ultra-cool Alt Hotel , is loud and proud , popping with blasts of red , colourful print banquettes , and a brick wall dominated by a giant rooster mural , courtesy of local artist Pat Lazo . Wornwood communal tables and speckled ceramics set the stage for family style eating , while the sleek bar and clean white open kitchen churn out drinks and plates with energetic efficiency .
Shareable plates pay respect to street food executed with elegance . Lahp , Thai “ good luck salad ”, can be found in lettuce wrap form : savoury braised pork well matched by earthy peanuts , cilantro , and pickled onions wrapped DIY style in silky butter lettuce leaves . Grill-charred , golden ears of corn sport all the fixings found at a Mexican street vendor – crumbly cotija cheese , mayo , and lime – and are ceremoniously carved off the cob tableside .
Crisp Szechuan-style dry fried ciao ! reviews
green beans go authentic with preserved mustard stems before taking a turn with burn from Mexican arbol chiles . Grilled rare tuna abandons the sushi roll for a tortilla , piled with smoky jalapeno salsa and kicky kimchi in a two bite taco .
Trendy ingredients get the fusion treatment as well , like charred Brussels sprouts in a saline soy sauce with a hit of chile . A scattering of crispy-fried garlic completes the city ' s best version of this popular veggie . Downtown cart favourite , the humble hotdog , gets an upgrade with Japanese flavours from sweet kewpie mayo and toasted nori .
The talk of the town is Merchant ’ s fried chicken . The dish ’ s popularity necessitated adding an individual size order to the menu , but trust us and tackle its original form : a mountainous 3 lbs of chicken presented on a painted ceramic platter . Fried Korean style – meaning double fried and extra crispy – the crust cracks away to reveal juicy breasts , wings , and legs rendered ultra-tender from a brining stint .
Plenty of lighter fare is on hand to break up the parade of fried , meaty , and spice-punched eats , including a refreshing line up of salads . A twist on som tum featuring wide orange ribbons of papaya tossed with cool cucumber , mint , and cilantro is touched with acidic burn from chilelime vinaigrette . Super food salad is a colourful jumble of legumes , grains , and seeds enlivened with sweet pops of pomegranate and salty cotija , chased with unexpected fire from minced jalapeños .
The kitchen ’ s wild spirit is good to the last drop , with sweets like towering chile chocolate cake with soy chocolate sauce putting the finishing touch on the mash up of tongue tingling flavour and hip flair that keeps us coming back for more .
The Merchant Kitchen is open Mon-Wed for lunch 11:30 am-2:30 pm , dinner 5 pm-11 pm , Thu-Fri 11:30 am-1 am , Sat 5 pm-1 am .
BARLEY BROTHERS Neighbourhood ... Fort Richmond Address ....... 2005 Pembina Hwy Phone . . . . . . . 204-691-3300 Entrées . . . . . . . . $ 12.75- $ 26
It was two years ago that Barley Brothers ' first location opened its doors , setting the stage for a beer revitalization in Winnipeg . While our hop-happy town has always loved a good brew , Barley Brothers is leading the way for beer aficianados , with two locations across the city turning former chain restaurants into an extensive showcase for craft and microbrews . Barley Brothers Stadium ups the ante with 150 + varieties , supported by a menu of prairie comfort food that reads not as an afterthought , but a tribute to the land and good brews .
A grain bin as the entrance and a backdrop of beer kegs act as the space ' s visual manifesto . A cue is taken from sports bars , with a view of one ( or three ) strategically placed television screens easily accessible from handsome leather seats or the bar . There ’ s a convivial come all vibe welcoming jersey-wearing sports fans and families alike . Boisterous game day fans cheer on a play , adding excitement to the chilled atmosphere . At each table , a craft beer flavour wheel informs diners of beer flavours from tart to alkaline , as affable waiters offer pairing suggestions along the way .
A scan of the menu shows how food pays homage to traditional sports bar grub , while reflecting the range of Manitoba . Winnipeg renditions of bar snacks and mains such as the Manitoba social board , a spread of cheeses , cured meats and pickles , ooze familiarity and nostalgia . Late night staple poutine is delivered in a classy rendition that pairs rich
ciao ! / dec / jan / two thousand fifteen 59