Cycling World Magazine July 2017 - Page 77

July 2017| 77 fate of medieval harbours and you ust have to stop off at Greyfriars ruins to see All Saints’ last gravestone clinging to the clifftops. Beyond unwich, it s decision time. The Suffolk Coastal Cycle Route, which stretches all the way to Felixstowe, points the way inland a while, but the Suffolk Coasts and Heaths Area of Outstanding Natural Beauty beckons too. Bright purple swathes of heather, golden gorse and all sorts of birdlife under the Suffolk sun make taking to the Fish and ships grassy, and occasionally sandy, tracks across Dunwich eath to S B Minsmere a bit of a no-brainer though not if you’re on a roadbike, of course). Back on tarmac, more abbey roads lead to Leiston, then bridleways vie with B-roads for your tyres and attention, delivering you back to the coast for more curiosities – this time, the dwardian holiday village, Thorpeness, with its half- timbered’ houses, huge boating lake and whimsical House in the Clouds. No visit to Suffolk s eritage Coast is complete without a good dose of well-deserved fish and chips and next up (or heading south, perhaps that should be ‘next down , Aldeburgh is the must-munch place to be. The hotel restaurants are happy to oblige, with warm views across to the boats pulled up on the shoreline and fisherfolk selling their catch. But nothing beats getting the goods from the local chippie and sitting up on Maggi Hambling’s iconic Scallop sculpture – the place to watch the ships go by and (if you’re lucky) an occasional seal too. A stately sort of fishing village that s only half of its original self, Aldeburgh was home to composer Ben amin Britten and, further along the Suffolk Coastal Cycle Route over the River Alde, his renowned Snape Maltings concert hall continues to attract big fish from international waters. Oysters are the order of the day at Orford, but cake from the Pumphouse Bakery proves to be more cyclist-fuel-friendly energy enough to climb the two hundred steps inside the 12 th century castle keep for breathtaking views over winding creeks and Europe’s largest vegetated shingle spit. Shingle Street seems an obvious next stop, with a note to self to return and go off-piste in endlesham orest. But there s another important port of call and boat to catch by the iver eben, before following the final waymarkers to Woodbridge – the remarkable ship burial of a warrior king at Sutton Hoo. A right royal place to be As cycling stop-overs go, Seckford all in Woodbridge is a right royal Tudor treat. li abeth reputedly held court at this grand redbrick pile and rumour has it, medieval king, dward , died in the reat all s armchair. Time to squeeze in a swim and possibly a spa treatment