CRAFT by Under My Host® Issue No. 17 Made in America: Part II | Page 91
A PROTEIN PRIMER FOR CHARCUTERIE
CURE-IOUS ABOUT CURED MEATS?
BY SMOKING GOOSE
Although the word charcuterie springs from ancient French roots, today it represents tra-
ditions that cross borders and centuries. Those traditions may have started out of neces-
sity—to preserve proteins before cheap and easy refrigeration—but since the results just
happen to be delicious, this historical chore has developed into a modern art.
Today, menus and market shelves and recipes are liberally seasoned with cured meat
curiosities. The best teacher is taste, of course, though we’ve assembled a quick primer
to help recognize the top shelf products and organize our observations between bites.
RAW RESOURCES
Pig is prime though not alone in the field. Traditional and new cured meats encompass farm-
raised and wild proteins: lamb, duck, rabbit, elk, boar and more. Seek out producers who go
hog wild for more than pork.
PREP PARAMETERS
Salt and patience might be the extent of some of the oldest cured meat recipes. Now, char-
cuterie employs fermentation, smoking, cooking, and more. Salumi inoculated with live cul-
tures, bacon hanging in the smoker, cooked meats pulled and packed into pans or pastry: all
these charcuterie methods provide essential preservation, and each produces different fla-
vor profiles. Explore these diverse preparations by sampling smoked, cooked, cured, and fer-
mented charcuterie.
SHAPE UP
When it comes to cured meats, one size does not fit all. The best butchers let the ingredients
dictate the final product. Trust an artisan whose products are in different shapes and sizes.
Narrow and wide salumi showcase coarse and fine grinds. Wrapping in bladders, caul fat, or
belly highlights nose-to-tail technique and yields different textures. It takes more time and
experience to refine these diverse methods, and that’s an investment with delicious dividends.
THE KIDS THESE DAYS
The classics deserve respect. Among these are products so precious that the European gov-
ernment ruled to protect them with strict production guidelines. This is important, but so is
innovation and experimentation. New makers who aren’t cutting corners while they craft their
own new recipes deserve some time at the table. Sample their new flavors and learn the story
behind their products to experience charcuterie’s past, present, and future.
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