CRAFT by Under My Host® Issue No. 16 Made in America: Part I | Page 60

W W W. C R A F T BY U M H . C O M
Curtis believes strongly in the importance of noting the differences be-
tween hybrid and sugarcane rums, and rums made in the true agricole
style, both in terms of flavor and method. “Agricole has got to taste like
agricole. Martinique has established the flavor profile and it’s something
completely different.”
Curtis gained his appreciation for the earthy, funky taste of agricole
while in Martinique, working on his book. “Caramelization from boiling,
even if its 100% cane juice, changes the flavor and composition, and evokes
similarities to molasses-based rums.”
In Martinique, in order for a spirit to be called AOC Martinique Rhum
Agricole, it must comply with strict geographic designations, farming
practices, as well as distillation methods, which include being distilled
from only fresh sugarcane juice, with no syrup or molasses additions
allowed.
American labeling requirements provide no such protection or clari-
ty and allow for confusion and frustration for distillers and customers
alike. While that’s not likely to change anytime soon, Curtis remains
hopeful, “I would like to see agricole and sugarcane rum as part of a new
way of thinking, perhaps allowing for regional, agricultural labeling.”
Curtis is encouraged in the recent improvements and excited about
what the style adds to the market. “In craft distilling, anything new, ex-
perimental and pushing the edges is helping keep the industry alive.”
Curtis is also impressed by investments into production such as Cane
Land’s. He hopes American agricole can grow past its experimental
specialty status and potentially create a new chapter in the legacy of
American rum.
Manulele’s Robert Dawson concurs, and was one of three distillers to
bemoan pirate iconography as the most memorable aspect of molas-
ses-based rums. “No pirates and no parrots; rum can be more than that,
like cognac and tequila. The greatest spirits of the world are nuanced from
freshly-pressed juice and are notably more exciting.”
It is certainly rare to witness American examples of an historic style,
farmed and grown in American soil, emerging into the marketplace
for the very first time. This collection of innovative, small distillers is
restoring value and flavor to one of the most commoditized crops in the
world. With every batch they distill, more heirloom cane is planted in
the dirt. They are supporting regional agriculture by expressing their
terroir in delicious spirits full of character and rich with story.