CosmoBiz Magazine April 2016 - Page 30

People Beauty Pine Bark, Nature’s Anti-Aging Secret by Karley Ziegler Mott Retinol. Peptides. Botox. These are the “big 3” in help- ing to prevent and correct the signs of skin aging. Cosmetic chemists have brought us well-regarded, highly effective skincare ingredients to help ward off lines and wrinkles, but the next big discovery in anti-aging skincare may just be something that can be extracted from a pine tree. Could tree bark really be the bee’s knees? Pine Bark is on its way to becoming the gold standard anti-aging ingredient in the eco-beauty arena In the green beauty industry, pine bark is appearing in more and more products. Why? Pycnogenol, which is the trademarked name for pine bark extract, shows great promise when it comes to its anti-aging capabilities. Is Pine Bark Extract the next big breakthrough -- or is it just hype? Pycnogenol’s patented formula features a blend of more than 40 plant-based chemicals, including potent antioxidants to fight free radical damage and flavonoids to strengthen collagen and elastin. This gift from nature is derived from the bark of the Pinus Maritima trees which are native to southern France. You may also see “French maritime pine bark extract” listed on the product ingredients listing if you are conscientious about reading labels. It’s noteworthy to mention that the trees are not harmed in any way by the extraction process, making it truly “green.” With so many up and coming ingredients to slow aging, though, is pine bark extract just another fly by night ingredient? Not according to Dr. Leslie Baumann, a well-respected dermatologist, author, and Director of the Baumann Cosmetic and Research Institute in Miami Beach. 30 COSMOBIZ SALON APRIL 2016 Dr. Baumann says, “Finally, an ingredient with a decent amount of research to back up its claims! In particular, research indicates that pycnogenol possesses notable antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, and anticarcinogenic capacity and an ability to inhibit pigment formation after UV exposure.” What does the science tell us about Pycnogenol? The research is truly compelling about the effectiveness of pine bark when used in skincare formulations. In an article published in Skin Pharmacology and Physiology, twenty healthy post-menopausal women had their skin treated with Pycnogenol for 12 weeks. When the study concluded, it was determined that all twenty women showed a significant improvement in skin elasticity and hydration. Unlike other topical anti-aging ingredients, the pine bark was well tolerated by all test subjects and no irritation occurred. The standard ingredients used in anti-aging remedies often are too harsh for sensitive skin types, resulting in redness and peeling. Other effective anti-aging treatments are invasive and involve in-office procedures. The research is very optimistic for those who prefer a more natural and holistic approach to their skincare routines. • Research in Finland has shown that Pine Bark Extract is effective against the sun’s UVB rays that are known to cause skin burning. • If skin puffiness under the eyes is a concern, Pine Bark Extract may be the answer, according to scientists at the University of Hungary. • There are no safety concerns or contraindications surrounding this ingredient. In fact, Pine Bark Extract is non-toxic, non-mutagenic, and non-teratogenic. • Pine Bark Extract has been used for centuries and has been carefully studied. According to Dr. Edward