CosmoBiz Magazine November 2017 | Page 68

All About HAIR How to Care for Damaged Natural Hair: Deep Conditioning Let’s be real: every woman uses a thermoelectric device, such as a flat iron or hairdryer, or a chemical dye, such as hair color, on their hair once in their life, even ladies with natural hair. The one time you want to do a length check and get a trim resulting in a blowout can be all it takes to damage the hair you wanted to protect. If you have experienced this heat damage, one thing that can help reduce that damage is regularly deep conditioning treatments. Here’s the rundown of what exactly deep condition- ing treatments are, why every natural-haired wom- en should be doing them and a recommendation of products. Deep Conditioning If a normal conditioner nourishes the hair surface to help maintain soft, radiant hair; a deep conditioner will function by restoring the hair by nourishing the interior. Thus, in order to actually repair damaged hair and maintain its health, it is necessary to nour- ish hair through deep conditioning. Deep conditioners contain oils or proteins (amino acids) that act as extra nutrients for hair. How well these nutrients are able to penetrate the hair cuticle to restore damaged hair is the basis for its effective- ness. In order to put oil and protein, which are the main nutrients in a deep conditioner, into the hair, it is necessary to include an emulsifier, which ensures that the water and oil in the product remain mixed. Hair can be fairly porous and it absorbs water like a sponge, in fact, absorbing liquids is one of hair’s favorite things to do. Among the various ingredi- ents in conditioner, the hair first absorbs water and the space inside the hair becomes soaked with water that it absorbs a small amount of oil (nutrients) in a very narrow space. Because of this, the conditioner products must contain emulsifying agents that will mix the water and oil (nutrients) so that it can be ab- sorbed into the hair. Surfactants are commonly used as oil emulsifiers, and synthetic surfactants include ethylene oxide, 1,4-dioxin, acrylonitrile, propylene oxide, diethanolamine, cocamide DEA. They act as 68 C O S M O B I Z M A G A Z I N E natural emulsifier such as Decyl glucoside, lauryl glucoside, palm kernel/coco glucoside, sodium co- coyl apple amino acid, sodium cocoyl glutamate, and potassium cocoyl glycinate. Protein does not need any emulsifier because the protein itself mixes well with water. The oil component used in the product is advanta- geous in penetrating into the hair as the smaller par- ticle oil is, and the particle oil, such as the silicone oil, is coated with the hair rather than the nutrient penetrating function to the hair to prevent the hair tangling and maintain the moisturization. This prod- uct is excellent for use in serum or rib conditioner products rather than deep conditioning products. How to Deep Condition 1. Apply a sufficient amount of deep condition- er to clean hair. 2. Put a plastic cap on while grabbing your at-