Organic UV-filters are carbon chains based.
These molecules are designed to be about the
size of UV light wavelength. All physical objects
on earth have a natural resonance frequency.
These organic UV-filter molecules resonance
frequencies are that of UV-light and therefore
they can absorb the energy in the UV-light and
neutralize it.
Sunscreen’s role is expanding. They are not
only protecting the skin from UV-light but also
can incorporate protection against High
Energy Visible (HEV) and Infra-Red-A (IR-A)
radiation. A modern sunscreen will offer
protection against sun and technology devices
radiation. The modern types of light
generating devices like LED lights, cell phone,
computers, etc. can emanate HEV.
Sunscreens are a necessity.
Hair Care Refresher – 11 October
• Gourmet” Concept in Hair Care and How
Food Influences Cosmetics, and Ideas of
Functional Products with this Concept by
Darryl Mostert, Chemgrit Cosmetics.
• Shampoos and Conditioners, their Use and
Pitfalls by Zdenek Toman, AMB Cosmetics.
• Inspire and Empower the African Way by
Chantel McCallum & Christien Gordon,
Croda.
• Hair Care Concepts and Innovations by Kim
MacCallum of Vantage Specialty Chemicals.
• The Latest Trend Mania and Hair Care
Innovations by Caroline Cochrane of the
Care Co.
• Innovation – Ingredient, Product or ???? by
Heidi De Oliviera, AMKA Products.
Innovation by Heidi De Oliviera from AMKA. A
view into the result of an ingredient inclusion
or a new product offering and more. These
are innovative, but they are only part of the
contribution to a complete package. Imagine,
a new ingredient that offers wrinkle reduction.
Add this ingredient to an average emulsion
night cream and whilst the consumer wants to
believe in the promise of this night cream, the
product leaves her skin feeling sticky and dry.
Or the alternative where an ingredient that is
not as efficacious but is delightfully sensorial.
The consumer may stay with the delightfully
sensorial product. Why? Because consumers
are sensorial in nature.
The entire offering DOES matter. These are
only the physical aspects of the product. We
should never lose sight of the tangibles – It is
the intangibles that are forgotten. Both as-
pects make up real and significant innovation.
Page 24
Rheology Modifier – Emulsifiers
Natural & Organic Refresher –
8 November
Zdenek Tolman discussed shampoos on first
part of his talk, their expected performance
and focused on different types of surfactants
and their advantages and disadvantages. The
basic features in which they differ was
discussed, with some examples. Micelles, their
formation and interactions and viscosity and
what the “critical micelle concentration” is was
discussed together with shampoo
thickeners and focus on sodium chloride and
gelling agents, hydrophobic versus hydrophilic
thickeners and mechanisms of their thickening.
The second part of the talk, focused on
conditioners. In the introduction, the anatomy
and the growth of hair was discussed with
further focus on external and internal factors in
hair damaging and characteristics of damaged
hair. Conditioning agents like humectants,
emollients & oils, proteins, silicones, cationic
surfactants and polymers were discussed.
• Cosmos approved emulsifiers and
Rheology Modifier for “green” formulations by
Sapphirah Phala, BASF.
• Reducing processing times with uniquely
formulated Rheology Modifiers by Zdenek
Toman, AMB Cosmetics on behalf of The Care
Co.
• Love is in Naturals by Tiffany De Astui, Carst
& Walker.
• Some of the challenges and pitfalls by Shani
Vermeulen, Cosmetic Ingredients.
Shani Vermeulen, discussed emulsions, the
delivery vehicles for actives and pigments,
have to be stable otherwise the appearance,
viscosity, texture, shelf life and sensorial
properties will be adversely affected.
Consumers demand natural, environmentally
friendly, sustainable and renewable cosmetics
which include emulsifiers and rheology
modifiers. Emulsion stability depends on the
particle size of the internal phase droplets
(depend on the energy input using high shear
mixing), reducing the interfacial tension
between the droplets and external phase, and
preventing the droplets from coalescing. The
smaller the droplets, the better the stability of
the emulsion.