Connected To The Land 04-2018-Fall-718-PM96 - Page 24

“Broken fibres create loft, space for air to be trapped,” says Smith. “Air is your best incubator.” More than one million Canadians who suffer from psoriasis, according to the Canadian Dermatology Association, may get skin flare-ups from synthetic materials such as fleece. For those with skin rashes or disorders, chemical additives are suspect and natural materials are likely easier to tolerate. Cotton, or even organic cotton for those with more budget, is a good choice as wool’s fibres are a likely trigger for flare-ups. Wool continues to have a prominent place among natural fibres. “People that want wool, really want wool,” says Cheryl Smith. “They understand that wool is warm, and it’s the original technical underwear.” Wool’s fibres have ample air between them, providing warmth without weight. Its natural oils help resist water absorption, too. However, wool’s itchiness, which is reduced with merino or blended wools, is still present because wool is made up of scales. Those scales can irritate the skin. This makes wool a better middle layer, but not a good inner layer. Historical winter favourites goose down or duck down are still used in winter clothing, as well as bedroom duvets. There is a difference between the two: duck down is more likely to have an odour, and the likelihood of odour increases when wet. The down is enclosed in boxlike baffles, stitched to keep the down trapped in place. The outer shell should have a thread count of at least 235 to keep the down from poking through. You may know someone, middle-aged or better, who had a winter down coat with inadequate baffle stitching, inadequate shell thread count, or both. moisture to escape. It is engineered to provide these qualities in a slim profile, allowing warmth without bulk. This is one reason why winter jackets have become less bulky. For your outer layer, another natural fabric is duck – the workwear fabric, not the bird. The term “duck” comes from the Dutch word doek, which refers to a linen canvas once used for Dutch pants and outerwear. Cotton duck has a higher thread count than traditional canvas, giving it a smoother feel, often referred to as ‘smooth- handed’. Duck’s heavy, plain cotton weave provides strength and is less likely to shear, snag or tear. When you think of a canvas tent, you know it’s also excellent at blocking the wind. It’s washable and becomes softer with wear. This means duck is a good option for your outer layer, although it can become wet. “Duck is the mainstay of our clothing line, and its durability is what Carhartt is built around,” says Mike Bernardo, Canadian Region Business Manager for Carhartt. “It’s what Carhartt is known for – they call it Carhartt brown for a reason.” A variety of synthetic materials provide close-to-waterproof protection for your external layer. These materials, such as Many brands of clothing instead use Thinsulate®, a synthetic nylon, polyester or rayon or material patented in 1979 that traps body heat, yet allows combinations, are laminated with polyvinyl chloride (PVC) or polyurethane, to become FABRIC CONTENT STYLE WARMTH ACTIVITY FEATURES & BENEFITS #S FACTOR LEVEL ‘rubbery’ and repel water. 2512 However the waterproof 2513 Comfortable next to skin, breathable, moderate warmth, PREMIUM 100% Cotton WARM Low 2514 not to be used in high activity. surface is not breathable, 2500 76% Modal, Built for comfort and warmth. Modal provides softness making the wearer feel hot. 8393 MODAL & MERINO 19% Merino Wool, WARM Moderate next to skin and merino wool provides good warmth. 8392 5% Spandex Spandex for great fit. A sophisticated material like 7534 Moderate to 100% polyester next to skin provides excellent moisture THERMOMESH 100% Polyester WARM Gore-Tex® is breathable, 7535 High movement. Great lightweight layer for most activities. and ‘guarantees’ to 41% Polyester, FX38 Extreme light weight but filled with hard working yarns HEATFX 33% Acrylic, FX39 Moderate to that provide more warmth than the weight of fabric LIGHTWEIGHT WARM 23%Viloft Viscose, FX32 High would normally dictate. Great wicking and close to body keep you dry due to the JERSEY 3% Spandex FX33 fit. Very comfortable & versatile. size of the pores in its 6622 50% Cotton, 6623 Low to Everyday warmth. Waffle knit creates pockets of air to WAFFLE WARMER membrane. Such particular 50% Polyester 6624 Moderate provide additional insulation. 6603 engineering comes at a 1452 50% Cotton, 1453 Low to Everyday warmth. Air trapped between layers is a cost. 2 LAYER WARMER ™ ® 50% Polyester 2498 2499 Moderate great insulator. WARMER Low to Moderate Extremely warm in low to moderate activity. Inside layer is 50% cotton / 50% polyester and outer layer is 50% merino / 50% polyester. No itch next to skin but maximum warmth overall. Air trapped between layers is a great insulator. MERINO WOOL 2-LAYER 25% Merino Wool, 50% Polyester, 25% Cotton 8812 8813 8814 8800 2482 2483 SUPERWASH WOOL 90% Wool, 10% Nylon 4300 4311 4312 4313 4310 WARMER Low to Moderate Good general purpose midweight wool to keep you warm in most conditions. Yarns have been softened to provide a smoother feel next to skin. PURE MERINO 100% Merino Wool 8312 8313 8332 8333 WARMER Moderate Good general purpose midweight wool to keep you warm in most conditions. Merino wool is a fine wool and itch factor is reduced substantially. PERFORMANCE MERINO 50% Merino Wool, 50% Polyester 8373 8372 WARMER Moderate to High 100% polyester next to skin provides excellent moisture movement and the outside layer is 100% merino for exceptional warmth. No itch factor and great for activities where rest and movement are alternating. HEATFX ™ MERINO BLEND 85% Polyester, 15% Merino Wool FX88 FX89 WARMER Moderate to High Midweight fabric that combines merino wool and polyester to give you both warmth and wicking. Very comfortable and versatile. HEAVY WEIGHT WOOL 80% Wool, 20% Nylon 1300 1312 1315 WARMEST Low to Moderate Extremely warm in low to moderate activity. Wool content absorbs moisture to keep you warm. Itch factor is high, so you may need to wear an under layer. MICROFLEECE 100% Polyester 7566 7567 WARMEST Moderate to High 100% polyester brushed both sides provides good loft to provide insulation and softness next to skin for comfort. 100% polyester provides good moisture movement. EXPEDITION WEIGHT 57% Acrylic, 38% Viscose, 5% Spandex 7568 7569 WARMEST Moderate to High Brushed on one side to make layering easier, while providing good loft on the inside to provide good insulation. Viscose adds extreme softness and specially designed yarns within the garment provide additional warmth and wicking. Spandex provides 4-way stretch. HEATFX ™ LIGHTWEIGHT FLEECE 41% Polyester, 41% Acrylic, 18% Viloft ® Rayon FX62 FX63 FX68 FX69 WARMEST Moderate to High This fabric is filled with hard-working yarns that provide more warmth than the weight of this fabric would normally dictate. Great wicking and brushed on inside for comfort. Very comfortable and versatile. Stanfield’s charts the various materials used in their inner and mid-layer products. Visit for a larger image, or to learn more. 24 At the same time, no material can be 100% waterproof and breathable. No matter what materials or layers you choose, there’s still a chance that winter will win. Your job is to put up a good resistance. W Alan Flowers is an Alberta-based freelance writer who has quit the big cities to enjoy a slower pace. He believes just about any subject can be made interesting. Coverall photo courtesy of Carhartt. Connected to the Land