CityPages Kuwait June 2016 Issue June 2016 | Page 78

Istanbul Istanbul is a city in Turkey that straddles Europe and Asia across the Bosphorus Strait. The Old City reflects cultural influences of the many empires that once ruled here. In the Sultanahmet district, the open-air, Roman-era Hippodrome was for centuries the site of chariot races, and Egyptian obelisks remain. The iconic Byzantine Hagia Sophia features a soaring dome and Christian mosaics. WHERE TO STAY THINGS TO DO This boutique hotel is on the Bosphorus's Asian shore in Kanlica, a 35-minute boat ride from the old town. It is a minimalist, white-wood-clad 19th-century yali (seaside mansion). There are 16 bedrooms, including three mezzanine suites with Philippe Starck baths next to the beds, and five with terraces and outdoor decking. There are many important monuments in İstanbul, but this venerable structure – commissioned by the great Byzantine emperor Justinian, consecrated as a church in 537, converted to a mosque by Mehmet the Conqueror in 1453 and declared a museum by Atatürk in 1935 – surpasses the rest due to its innovative architectural form, rich history, religious importance and extraordinary beauty. AJIA Aya Sofya WHERE TO DINE Arch Bistro AYASOFYA PANSIYONLARI This superior pension is comprised of a row of nine vine-clad wooden houses, all impeccable copies of Ottoman residences, and furnished in a 19th-century Turkish style. as well as Sarnic, a subterranean restaurant in a Roman cistern lit only by candles. Blue Mosque İstanbul's most photogenic building was the grand project of Sultan Ahmet I (r 1603–17), whose tomb is located on the north side of the site facing Sultanahmet Park. The mosque's wonderfully curvaceous exterior features a cascade of domes and six slender minarets. Blue İznik tiles adorn the interior and give the building its unofficial but commonly used name. Olive Anatolian Restaurant BOSPHORUS PALACE The Bosphorus Palace, on the Asian side of the city, is your chance to stay at a yali, or seafront house, albeit one that is heavily restored. From here, you can take a ferry into the old city or nip up the road to Bosporus Bridge. The interior could do with being a little bit less stuffy. Grand Bazaar The colourful and chaotic Grand Bazaar is the heart of İstanbul's Old City and has been so for centuries. Starting as a small vaulted bedesten (warehouse) built by order of Mehmet the Conqueror in 1461, it grew to cover a vast area as lanes between the bedesten, neighbouring shops and hans (caravanserais) were roofed and the market assumed the sprawling, labyrinthine form that it retains today. Old Ottoman Cafe & Restaurant CIRAGAN PALACE KEMPINSKI Once home to the last sultans of the Ottoman empire, this sumptuous hotel has 280 rooms and 33 suites in the restored palace and a contemporary building next door. The charm of staying here is waking up in a spacious room with a view of one of the most exciting waterways in the world. Harem Istanbul Cafe & Restaurant Basilica Cistern This subterranean structure was commissioned by Emperor Justinian and built in 532. The largest surviving Byzantine cistern in İstanbul, it was constructed using 336 columns, many of which were salvaged from ruined temples and feature fine carved capitals. Its symmetry and sheer grandeur of conception are quite breathtaking, and its cavernous depths make a great retreat on summer days. 78 JUNE, 2016 Bon voyage!