ciao! reviews
every spoonful only slows the eating
slightly, revealing amateurs in the
room from the pros.
Although most of the world’s
ramen is made from manufactured
dry noodles bought from mass sup-
pliers, this eatery makes its own on
site. The process plays out in plain
view, entertaining those who look
up between slurps. These freshly
made artisanal noodles, exquisitely
add a delicate wheat flavour to the
mixtures.
Starters at Cho Ichi Ramen are
impressive too, offering unexpected
flavour mash ups. Sweet kewpie
mayo, fishy bonito, nori and a sprin-
kle of green onions add an explosion
of tastes to Okonomiyaki fries and
takoyaki. Bao buns are moist, the
sweet soft dough wraps around
crunchy fried chicken or impos-
sibly tender pork accented with
sweet mayo and a crunch of let-
tuce. Calamari is fried nutty brown,
dipped in spicy garlic mayo setting
it apart from anything we’ve known.
Cho Ichi Ramen is fun and lively
and habit forming. One thing is clear;
the success of this new hotspot is
evident by the families, couples and
friend groups leaving with bragging
rights to having crushed their bowl.
Cho Ichi Ramen is open Sun-
Wed 11 am - 10 pm, Thurs-Sat 11
am - 12 am
LITTLE GOAT
Neighbourhood . . . . St James
Address . . . . 2615 Portage Ave
Phone . . . . . . . 204-254-4628
Entrées . . . . . . . . . . .$21-$29
Once upon a time, French food
meant candlelight, starched table
linens, and a maître d’ in tails.
But times have changed. Now,
chefs are looking beyond Paris’
Michelin-starred kitchens and
finding inspiration in the rustic
flavours hiding beneath the lid of
52
ciao! / dec/jan / two thousand eighteen
grandmere’s Le Creuset.
Little Goat, which opened its
doors in late 2017, is doing just
that. This charming spot, where
every bite is an ode to la campagne,
is a French revelation.
Situated on a stretch of west
Portage Avenue dominated by
take out spots, it has become the
hip haunt for St James dwellers and
francophile foodies alike. Owners
and husband/wife duo chef Alex
Svenne and Danielle Carignan-
Svenne honed their ability to craft
cozy neighbourhood restos in
underserved areas of the city ever
since opening Bistro 7 ¼ in 2006.
Blond wood, whitewashed brick,
chairs upholstered with colourful
floral fabric, and cloth napkins
adorned with a single navy stripe,
all contribute to the welcoming
atmosphere. Beginning with the
selection of “bouchees,” like pâtés,
rilletes, and smoked oysters, dinner
has the feeling of a picnic. A pâté of
mushrooms arrives neatly packed
into a mini mason jar, scented
richly of wine and deeply earthy.
Luscious pork rillettes are savoury
and lightly smoky, hidden under a
thick cap of fat.
Offering a balance to the butter
and cheese laden staples of French
cooking, starters plunder the coun-
try’s rural areas for light, bright
dishes. The French salad, a melange
of arugula, snap peas, radishes,
celery and licorice-scented fennel is
well dressed in a lemony vinaigrette.
Chickpeas and clusters of nutty
quinoa give it some body – the sort
of hearty touch that unfussy, rustic
cooking does so well.
Rustic is the buzzword informing
the entrée section of the menu. The
line up features large cuts of meat
lovingly braised and simmered to
exquisite softness, like tender boeuf
bourguignon, redolent of red wine.
Sausages, a homey preparation orig-
inally born out of efficient butchery,
here are plump and juicy from a
white wine braise and paired with
a thick pink slice of smoked pork. A
pile of baby potatoes and wedges of
sourdough are provided for sopping
up the juices, while a tangy sauer-
kraut and vinegar punched house
made pickles deliver hits of acid to
cut through the rich dish.
Pommes aligot appears as a side
for several dishes, but nearly steals
the show. A dish from France’s
southern Aveyron region, starchy
potatoes are whipped with a nutty
soft cheese, butter and cream until
they break into an almost stretchy
texture. An earthy ratatouille, flecked
with thyme, pairs beautifully with
herb-studded chevre.
The menu’s appeal is an all-day
affair, and Little Goat has become
as likely destination for a morning
croque madame or noontime tartine
as a languid dinner.
All good things must come to
an end, but the welcoming room is
surely bidding au revoir, not adieu
– one thing’s for sure, we’ll be back.
Little Goat is open Tue-Sat 8
am-10 pm, Sun 8 am-2 pm
THE OXBOW
Neighbourhood South Osborne
Address . . . . . .557 Osborne St
Phone . . . . . . . 204-691-5373
Entrées . . . . . . . . . . . $8-$34
Residential South Osborne, with
its walkable strip of storefronts, has
always held some gems, but now
the neighbourhood may be hitting
a trendy tipping point. Recently
added to the mix of hip restos and
shops is Oxbow. Wine bar vibes and
beautiful, elevated small plates have
combined to make this new restau-
rant a can’t-miss destination.
A gorgeous dining room sets the
scene. It must be the warmth of the
rustic wood, exposed brick walls,
pendant lighting and stunning four-
paned, floor-to-ceiling windows that
feel so inviting. Then again, it may