inthekitchen
nurture
in nature
Chef Thomas Stuart rounds out a day
of relaxation with soul-nourishing
comfort food.
by Matthew Kruchak
Chef Thomas Stuart strolls through the dining room of the restaurant
at Thermea by Nordik Spa-Nature, leading the Ciao! team on a visit to
sample his inventive dishes. They pass diners in plush white bathrobes
enjoying food inspired by Scandinavian cuisine and Manitoba
ingredients. Steam rises from the hot pool, surrounded by a park-like
setting, visible just outside the bistro’s large, gleaming windows.
Nowhere else in Winnipeg can you go from a sizzling sauna to a frigid
pool to dining on an exquisite meal – wearing a robe. Thermea is all
about relaxation and rejuvenation of the mind, body and soul, whether
in its heated pools, steam rooms, dry saunas or quiet rooms. As chief
of the food experience, Stuart pairs relaxing time with a menu that has
the customer’s soothing needs in mind. And the setting suits him – he’s
calm, cooly confi dent and speaks in a tranquil tone.
The 35-year-old chef wants people to feel relaxed and have a great
time. He does his part by creating memorable, healthy and comforting
food. Spa food has a lot of baggage, Stuart says, adding that it brings
to mind bland health trends of the 1980s, like crunching on iceberg
lettuce and micro greens. Spa food can be so much more, he says: it can
be comforting, like his take on a gooey croque monsieur, or hearty and
nourishing, like his beet bowl, which features four different preparations
of the root veggie.
Stuart started at Thermea fi ve years ago while the spa was still under
construction. As part of the interview process, he had to prepare a multi-
course dinner that represented his style of cooking. He made sous vide
Manitoba bison tenderloin with coffee-infused gravy, caramelized carrot
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ciao! / dec/jan / two thousand eighteen