Ciao Dec/Jan 2017 CIAO_DecJan2017_Digital | Page 55

BRAZEN HALL Neighbourhood . . . Fort Rouge Address . . . 800 Pembina Hwy Phone . . . . . . . 204-453-7980 Entrées . . . . . . . . . . .$ 14- $ 35
When restaurateur Kristian Kristjansson closed the doors of The Round Table 40 years after his father opened it , many wondered what would replace the beloved Tudor cottage building . As months turned into the better part of a year , the massive renovation project unfolded before the eyes of commuters . What emerged may retain the same footprint of the original building , but is unrecognizably new and improved .
The entire experience is both casual and obsessive ; relaxed yet smart décor , a menu that pays attention to today ’ s growing list of crazy diets , and knowledgeable service packaged in jeans and T-shirts . Salvaged wood covering walls and beams above give the new space a rustic beer barn feel , but the finishes are chic enough to make women happy . On-site brew bins are visible through glass , giving a peek at the action while keeping the odorous by-products of the process at arms length .
Unmistakably though , beer provides focus for what to eat here . Snacks , appies , burgers , noodles and entrees are designed for pairing with a pint . House brew nuts offer instant gratification – the spicy , smoky , cocoa covered blend can turn into an addiction without intervention . Tempura cauliflower , a clear favourite by the servers , doesn ’ t disappoint . Accompanying soy glaze offers a hit of salty while keeping it light ( ish ).
Local breweries have been opening - with on site tasting rooms luring avid beer drinkers to the heart of the craft beer buzz - since last December . By now , small batch brewers have staked out a legitimate industry , with ciao ! reviews
Brazen Hall leading the group as brew pub poo bah . The playful let-yourhair-down menu is packing in diners of all ages , offering homey multi-culti classics that fit the new age of urban foodsters seeking out favourite flavours from around the globe .
Burgers with beer are an easy sell . The vegetarian burger (“ Vurger ”) is notable , with mango jalapeno relish and crisp fried onions offering a one two punch . However , it ’ s the beef and farmer sausage patty on a potato bun , covered with special blueberry maple ketchup , bacon , mushrooms , Manitoba Trappist cheese and beer braised onion that has earned the restaurant a big fan base during the summertime “ Le Burger Week ” promotion .
Noodles are the surprise delight at this brew pub . Handmade ravioli are filled with a gorgeous mixture of wild mushroom , caramelized onion and ricotta and topped with a rose sauce that holds its own among leading local Italian bistros . The vermicelli bowl rivals any of our favourite pho joints , and the red Thai curry ’ s hits the right note with its mix of veggies , and balance of spice and sweet .
Classic hearty fare like beef ribs make an appearance too . Rich stout braised short ribs are placed over potato and cauliflower mash , with a generous sprinkle of peas and pickled onion , for a falloff-the-bone dish that is Sunday dinner worthy . Succulent buttermilk brined Nashville Hot fried chicken layers some heat with a beer tinged hot sauce . Camp style charred bread makes a nice crunchy accompaniment .
End with spicy warm clove and cinnamon cake for a playful mixture of textures and flavours . Pumpkin white chocolate ganache , sticky beer caramel , buttermilk cream and a sprinkling of pie crust crumble punctuate the dining experience with a lasting impression . Brazen Hall is open Mon-Tue 11:30 am-12 pm , Wed-Sat 11:30 am-1 am , Sun 11:30 am-11 pm .
BOUCHÉE BOUCHER Neighbourhood . . . St Boniface Address . . . 101-300 Taché Ave Phone . . . . . . . 204-237-1530 Entrées . . . . . . . . . . $ 25- $ 35
When a new restaurant opens at a popular corner that has perplexed many business starts before it , eyebrows raise . When that restaurant is opened by a team of chefs and enthusiasts who want to introduce the community to a business concept not yet trending in Peg city , tongues wag . This is the case with restaurant butcher shop Bouchée Boucher .
A bright window lined room is fashionably festooned in contemporary upholstery , shades of blond wood and a few red chairs to spice things up . Two entrances , one to the dining room , the other through the retail space , both set the scene . It is lively and loud , and the greeting is warm . Entering through the store teases what ’ s to come . Shelves are stocked with Manitoba brands , specialty food , and gifts and souvenirs reflecting the practice of buying local . The way to the restaurant passes in front of the temptation case – beautifully laid out cuts of meat that will arrive at tables seared , roasted and braised throughout the evening .
While at first blush diners may expect a menu dominated by meat , it is quality , not quantity , that is revered here . Many dishes are presented as small plates , encouraging sharing tastes . Larger plates are presented too , with the suggestion to share among more .
Vegetables , the food group of the moment , appear at the top of the dinner menu and coax some palate pushing . Pairings of herbs and spices eschew the expected : like maple , mint and pickled chiles
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