Ciao Aug/Sep 2017 Digital Digital_CIAO_AugSep2017 | Page 12

producer of the year : The Canadian Birch Company
Canada is known for its maple syrup , but in Manitoba ’ s back yard , a different type of liquid gold has been , until recently , an untapped treasure . Above Lake Winnipeg ’ s south basin , ideal soil conditions have caused birch trees to flourish and produce rich , clear sap .
Owners of The Canadian Birch Company , Glenda and Rory Hart , began tapping into the birch syrup market in 2006 . After years of trial and error , the couple impressed judges and placed 3rd for best new product at the 2014 Manitoba Taste Awards . Defying syrup ’ s sugary connotations , it is typically used as glaze for meats rather than topping a stack of pancakes . “ At first no one knew about birch syrup ,” says Glenda . “ Slowly those conversations changed to , ‘ birch syrup — I ’ ve heard of that ! Can I try ?’” An increased demand from chefs across Canada and the high-end market lead to rapid expansion from 1,200 birch trees in 2013 to a projected 2,500 for the 2018 season .
With the recent growth of production came new products such as Birch Whisky Toffee sauce and Birch BBQ sauce created by birch syrup devotee and former President ’ s Choice executive chef Christine Cauvelier . A chef ’ s touch has helped Glenda and Rory grow their product line while staying on trend . This impressive ingenuity has led us to award The Canadian Birch Company the title of Ciao ! Magazine ’ s Good Food Manitoba 2017 Producer of the Year .
The Canadian Birch Company products can be found at retail outlets including Kenaston Wine Market , the Canadian Museum for Human Rights Boutique and St . Norbert ’ s Market and appears in dishes at VG Restaurant and Clementine Cafe . — NB
inthekitchen
may seem at odds with the restaurant industry , which values consistency and unlimited choice . Yet these hurdles drive creativity , resulting in a wide ranging , varied menu that capitalizes on what ’ s good , right now : the line up of dishes changes with the season , and accommodates for the diversity of the museum ’ s guests ( more than half the menu is gluten free and / or vegan ).
Traditional techniques like preserving , pickling , freezing , and using all parts of the animal ( or vegetable ) are taken up with gusto . That ’ s why you ’ ll find shelves lined with jars of pickles , and ingredients like beef tongue — the basis for Era ’ s popular beef chips — on the menu . This kind of cooking can be a way to open diners ’ eyes to new possibilities . “ I want to change people ’ s minds with food … take something people would dismiss and transform it ,” says Steven .
Extolling the plump rye berries from Tamarack Farms in Erikson , MB , or beef
“ I want to change people ’ s minds with food .”
from Carman (“ It ’ s so well marbled it looks like knock off Wagyu !”), chef Steven reinforces the bounty that is right under our noses in Manitoba . “ When the farmers do their job , it ’ s easy to do my job ,” he avers . The bright , concentrated flavours of a freshly pulled carrot or a gorgeous ripe tomato are proof enough .
Input from the other chefs in the kitchen is another important part of menu creation . Cooks with culturally diverse backgrounds — Jamaican , Filipino , French — introduce dishes and techniques from their heritage , along with creative new ideas . Everyone from sous chef to line cook is encouraged to chime in .
Chef Steven intentionally defies the image of the snappy , domineering chef . He is humble , explaining his kitchen philosophy with an earnest passion , and lights up when he talks about his staff . He
10 ciao ! / aug / sep / two thousand seventeen