Ciao 2017 issues JuneJuly 2017 | Page 31

ciao! reviews Peg beer co Neighbourhood. . . . . . Exchange Address. . . . . . . . 125 Pacific Ave Phone. . . . . . . . . . 204-416-2337 Entrées. . . . . . . . . . . . . $12-$60 The flood of new craft breweries putting our city awash in local suds has made this the year of beer in Winnipeg. While interest in local beer has been steadily growing for years, one of the first restaurants to capitalize on the brewpub concept in Winnipeg was Peg Beer Co. Setting itself apart from the many breweries that offer taproom tast- ing, this brewery has a full menu of regionally focused dishes to com- plement pours brewed on site. Chef Aron Epp’s penchant for local and scratch-made ingredients (excercised during his tenure at the University of Winnipeg's Elements)is evidenced by everything from house-pickled eggs and veg to fresh baked bread. Despite the unlikely pairing of a brewery and a religious community, hints to this province’s Mennonite heritage appear on the menu. The peculiarities of regionality result in dishes like Faspa (a traditional Sunday meal of buns, cheese, and cold meats) and rhubarb platz (fruit crumble), proving that the new gen- eration of homesteaders are a little less buttoned up. Food that pulls from rustic, nos- talgic inspiration is only fitting for the restaurant’s setting, an Exchange District warehouse whitewashed and illuminated with twinkling lights. Beer hall wooden tables and stainless steel accents give an industrial edge. The sprawling space has room for beer production and consumption; you may be able to take a peek at the brewery, where steel tanks are hap- pily fermenting away new batches of brews (free brewery tours take place Mondays at 7 and 8 pm, private tours can be booked for $5 a head). With six specialty beers on tap and available by growler, it’s no wonder beer makes its way into the food. ISA (India Session Ale) lends light, hoppy flavour to an aged ched- dar soup, rich without being heavy. Beet and ricotta salad is elevated by the malty edge of a citrus-stout vinaigrette. In lieu of entrées, “large plates” encourage family style sharing. Oktoberfest spirit—no matter the date on the calendar—gets in full swing as a server lowers a platter bearing a slab of bone-in ham, glis- tening with honey glaze. A smoked corned beef platter, another monster portion, is worth gathering the requisite 2-4 friends to splurge. Served on a mound of roasted veggies—carrots, parsnips, and smashed potatoes, all laced with dill—the meat is served in fist sized cubes stacked neatly under a trail of whole seed mustard. Soft house- made bread, sauerkraut, pickles and dressing are on hand for building heaping sandwiches. A selection of flatbreads offers an option for those looking for a lighter meal. A fungus 'za layers on the cheese with a mound of mush- rooms and a scattering of bacon, all under an earthy swirl of truffle oil. Good food and good beer brings people together, forging a bond by breaking bread and clinking glasses. Undermining the legacy of haute cuisine, regional food has always found its strength in authenticity, in how closely it aligns with the dishes lovingly prepared in home kitchens; it connects those who eat it with the land and its people. From the chat- ter at the filled tables of this bustling brewpub, its easy to see that Peg Beer Co is making connections. Peg Beer Co is open Mon-Thu 11 am-11 pm, Fri & Sat 11 am-12 am, and Sun 4 pm-11 pm. Across the board Neighbourhood. . . . . . Exchange Address. . . . . 211 Bannatyne Ave Phone. . . . . . . . . . 204-691-3422 Entrées. . . . . . . . . . . . . $12-$17 In the current age of smartphones and instant entertainment, cafes remain bastions of face to face fun. At the newly expanded Across the Board Cafe, analog entertainment isn’t going any