SURFING
EJ // The best surf break is Bluff. Super heavy on the
beach type of break. Hollow fast waves and also had a
cool little restaurant to hang out at. It was just kind of
far from town to taxi... but so worth it.
Nick // I mean there wasn’t really like a local spot.
There was an island called Carrenaros. And there’s
this spot off the point and I feel like if any, thats the
only spot that the localism is like going on just because
there’s like a certian peak that you have to sit on in
order to get a decent wave. I almost got beat up by a
girl actually. Haha. It was actually pretty funny. I would
be taking waves and she would be sitting on the inside.
I’d cool off and let her go for like three times, then the
fourth time, I dropped in and then just grabbed the
nose of her board and guided her off the wave and kept
going. Then she like paddled over to me and freaked
out that she was a local and it was her wave, and I told
her I had given her three waves that she snaked me on.
She was actually pretty hot. And then later that day, she
did a drive by, by my house to like freak me out, haha.
I don’t know. And that night at the beer tourney I saw
one of her guy friends who freaked out on me until I
told him the whole story. And then I found her and just
bought her a beer and a shot. If you ever f–– up, just
buy the person a beer and a shot. Then she like cried a
little bit becasue she felt bad. Haha.
“
I F YO U E V E R F – – U P,
J U ST B U Y T H E P E R S O N A B E E R
A N D A S H OT.
”
137