A rare kiwi bird sighting
Grapevines in the verdant Wairau Valley
32
Winter 2018
CAA MAnitOBA
New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc and fresh-caught salmon
Leaving the north isLand to
return
to the South Island aboard the
Interislander ferry, strong wind gusts
keep passengers off the exterior decks
of the ship. After swiftly navigating
through Cook Strait, the ferry enters
Marlborough Sounds and the wind
suddenly calms. Passengers flock
outside to snap photos of the valley’s
verdant hills before we dock in Picton.
A half-hour down the road is
the town of Blenheim, gateway to
the fertile Wairau Valley. The land
surrounding Marlborough produces
77 percent of the country’s total wine,
and is considered the birthplace of
New Zealand’s Sauvignon Blanc, a
varietal first planted here in the 1980s.
The region’s 20,000 hectares benefit
from ancient glacial soil, endless
sunshine and multiple river systems.
I begin my wine-country sojourn
at Wither Hills vineyard, home to
award-winning Sauvignon Blanc,
Pinot Gris, Chardonnay, Riesling, Rosé
and Pinot Noir vintages. With my
thirst suitably quenched after a few
samples, I pull up a table at the on-site
restaurant. Helmed by native son chef
Ross Harrison, the eatery showcases
seasonal, locally sourced ingredients.
My late lunch begins with mushroom
risotto paired with a glass of Wither
Hills Sauvignon Blanc. For my main,
I opt for seared venison sourced from
nearby Mountain River, accompanied
by Taylor River Pinot Noir. The sweet
finale is a tart lime cheesecake, served
with blanc de blanc ice cream and
Wairau Valley Riesling.
The next day, I head for the water,
exploring a small part of the 4,000-
square-kilometres of Marlborough
Sounds. On my Seafood Odyssea
Cruise, I sample fresh-caught Regal
salmon and Cloudy Bay clams, along
with more chilled Sauvignon Blanc.
Back on land, I walk off the freshwater
feast with a hike in the Whenuanui Bay
Scenic Reserve.
For my last dinner in New Zealand,
I grab a garden table at Marlborough’s
Hans Herzog Estate. I indulge in
slow-cooked lamb shank with braised
vegetables and a glass of Herzog’s
organic Pinot Noir. Raising my glass
as I look out over the vineyards, I
make a silent promise to return and
experience more of New Zealand’s
laid-back island living.
salmon:
After wandering rows of Instagram-
worthy shelves, we learn about
area producers and taste local fare,
including meat, cheese and pickles.
Heading toward the bustling water-
front, our next stop offers samples of
manuka honey, a Kiwi commodity
popular for its apparent ability to
improve sleep, reduce allergies and
boost immunity. At the Harbourside
Market, we encounter a cacophony of
vendors selling fruit and vegetables, as
sweet and spicy scents emanate from
the row of food trucks. The tour’s final
stop is Gelissimo Gelateria, the perfect
place to cool down after a few hours
in the warm sun. I dig into decadent
spoonfuls of passion fruit gelato.
One can’t go to New Zealand without
learning about the Maori, NZ’s indig-
enous people. Te Papa Tongarewa
Museum—meaning “container of trea-
sures” in Maori—showcases past and
present culture, along with the island’s
natural history.
Another must-see sight is Zealandia,
a 225-hectare ecosanctuary. Located
within a decommissioned dam site, the
refuge houses 24 endemic species of
birds and several specimens of native
plant life. I opt for the Zealandia by
Night tour, a guided hike starting
at dusk. I hope to spot nocturnal
creatures and the beloved but shy kiwi
bird. Luck is on my side as I catch a
glimpse of not one but two birds, their
round posteriors quickly disappearing
into the low bushes.