From left: Fado in Bairro Alto; classic Portuguese kale soup
translated as fate or destiny, fado is a folk music
we also host a two-day fado festival in Alfama.”
genre born in the city’s Alfama district in the
To hear for myself, I book a table at Povo. On
1820s. The melancholic melodies evoke the notion
Lisbon’s famous pink street—a rose-painted
of saudade: yearning for something lost.
avenue lined with restaurants—the bustling bistro
“Fado is us—the Portuguese—set into music,”
specializes in petiscos (Portuguese tapas). Unlike
says historian and scholar Dr. Rui
other restaurants, which charge
Vieira Nery. In 2011, Nery led the
a hefty prix-fixe dinner-and-
charge to put fado on UNESCO’s
show fee, Povo’s menu is à la
list of Intangible Cultural
carte and the fado is included
Heritage.
free of charge. Another unique
“By the mid-19th century, fado
selling point: the fadistas (fado
became the characteristic song of
singers) are amateurs taking part
the lower-class neighbourhoods
in the eatery’s artist-in-residence
of Lisbon, along the harbour
program. Each performer gets a
and in the rural outskirts of the
nightly set at this informal fado
city,” says Sara Pereira, director
finishing school.
Spain and portugal
of the city’s Museu do Fado,
After I settle in with some
globus
which preserves and promotes
caldo verde (kale soup) and pork-
a fully escorted
the genre as a symbol of Lisbon
cheek croquettes, the show starts
14-night tour to sample
and a cornerstone of Portuguese
promptly at 9. Two musicians and
Portuguese culture,
culture. The museum’s vast
a singer assemble at the front of
cuisine and history. Caa
collection includes historical
the restaurant—not on a stage,
travel’s novella troia
documents, lyrics, recordings
but between tables, making for
will guide you through
and instruments celebrating the
an intensely intimate experience.
spain’s sun-soaked
musical tradition. It also hosts
Following proper fado etiquette,
sights and the best of
regular performances.
I remain silent while the fadisto
Portgual. sip port on a
Thanks in large part to the
pours out his heart about what I
patio in Porto; explore
museum, fado is a must-see
assume is lost love. Though
historic cathedrals in
and -hear for any tourist. But it
songs are sung in Portuguese, the
lisbon; and journey
through the fortified
remains firmly entrenched with
emotions behind each word and
town of obidos.
locals as well. “Lisboetas and
note resonate in any language.
Portuguese from all over the
I sip my Vinho Verde and close
sept. 16–oct. 1, 2020
country still love to attend fado
my eyes. For a brief moment, I
call or email Novella
shows—in the museum, fado
feel a part of this passionate
204-262-6216
houses or at outdoor concerts,”
city reverberate in my own soul.
[email protected]
Pereira says. “Every September,
Saúde, Lisbon.
48
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