CAA Manitoba Fall 2018 - Page 46

Rush hour in sun-soaked Camaguey care , Ramon Guilarte places a half-empty bottle of Paticruzado rum on our table, alongside a battered tin coffee pot and some cups made from old soup cans. He sits down, lights a cigar, smiles through a billowing wreath of smoke and proudly proclaims: “Rum, coffee and cigars are the best things produced in Cuba and you have to enjoy them together!” Guilarte is our host at La Fondita de Compay Ramon, a private restaurant he runs with his family in Santiago de Cuba, the country’s second-largest city after Havana. Privately operated restaurants like his, known as paladares, cater to tourists and locals alike—and they’re popping up all over the country. 46 Fall 2018 CAA ManitoBa In a country where virtually every business is state-owned and salaries are low, the opportunity to cash in on the tourism boom is a big deal for many families. The restaurants are also great places for visitors to interact with ordinary Cubans. Guilarte grew up on a farm in the neighbouring Sierra Maestra Mountains, and artifacts from his youth adorn the walls of his eatery. While he leaves the cooking to his wife Mayra and daughter Viviana, Guilarte serves us a buffet of traditional Cuban fare: pork, chi [\ XKX[˜[[Z[]\[ۙx&\]\]H\\XY[%ܛ[YY]ܙY[\\ۚ[ۈ[X]]XKY\HYX[ ]X[H\ܚX\H]\٘X[ۈو\\[܈Y\ˈ\]\X\B[[Y[ 8'HܙX]\X\\H܂X[X][[ۈZ[\BYH\YH\]ܜ[Z[\ 8'BZ[\H^\8'HX[H[[H™Y[ZH^H\H[^HYNYB[HYH[\\\]X]H\›Y[X\و\[Z[K'B][\[[XY\\ۙBوX[HYYو[ZY Y^BY\]Z\\[ܙH[ L[Y]\[ۙY^\[XœYYX]]Y[ۚX[]Y\˜[\H\HۜˈH\^B[\XK]YXH]Y[\X[XY[ܙ[\H]\\BH\ \\XXX\܈XH[H\\YXXH[[\˂š][X\]