Brides Today June-July 2017 - Page 41

Normandie cuff with rose-cut diamonds by Doryn Wallach. emerald and diamond ring, circa 1930. courtesy: simon teackle. Volutes minaudière crafted by Van cleef & arpels in 1935. egyptian-inspired bracelet by Van cleef & a arpels produced in 1924. designers and laid the foundation for many transformable pieces lighter and case, lipstick holder, a comb, a notebook, pen, and that followed. My clients in China are especially in love with the a small pill-box all encased in luscious gold, accentuated with double clip brooch and I struggle to keep up with the demand,” striking enamel work, diamonds, and gemstones. contributes Kang. We don’t have to look at only vintage jewellery to find Many consider the house of Cartier as a pioneer in the field of Art Deco; jewellery houses even today are inspired by this iconic Art Deco and India has played an important role in this journey. era. Doryn Wallach spent nearly two decades in the world of 1901 marked Cartier’s first foray into Indian-inspired design interior design before turning to the art of jewellery creation. when Pierre Cartier was commissioned by Queen Alexandra to “Art Deco was a constant source of inspiration for me when create a necklace to accompany her collection of Indian gowns. I worked as an interior designer and continues to inspire me now with my jewellery designs. It evokes a sense of It was 1911, however, when his brother, Jacques romanticism, the glamour of old Hollywood and a Cartier, embarked on his first voyage to India. “The bygone era think The Great Gatsby and The Orient fashion for Indian style was born, an infatuation in Express. However, owing to its streamlined and the west with the splendours of the east: sapphires geometric simplicity, it never feels dated. I love its from Kashmir, rubies from Burma, and emeralds repetitive forms, clean lines, vibrant colour schemes, with incredible engravings from the Mughal era. The and stylised motifs. As an aesthetic sensibility, it’s one jewellers loved their poetic irregularities, which were that projects confidence, energy, and modernity,” cut into pear shapes and then engraved. Some people says Wallach. found them crude, others recognised the expression In India, Mandira Khanna of Delhi-based Kanjimull of authenticity in their elegance. Patterns, stones, rock crystal cocktail ring pavé black diamonds & Sons, has been watching her father create colours… Cartier was engrossed in his exploration with and emerald baguette by designs inspired by Art Deco but with an Indian of the riches of India. Embracing the cosmopolitan, Doryn Wallach. interpretation that has become their signature style. scintillating continent, home to flamboyant jewellery, he transposed its dazzling splendour into a style that later became “The one thing that Art Deco inspires us with is its straight lines known as Tutti Frutti. A fine example is the necklace made for and symmetry, which we try and incorporate in our designs but Daisy Fellowes. The high priestess of British fashion wore this with a modern Indian twist,” says the designer. By the end of the Second World War the Art Deco movement necklace just once in 1951,” as cited in Cartier arch ̸ٕ)%ѥѼݕ䰁ѡЁɄͼͅ܁ѡ݅́ͥ́1ݥѠЁͥɕ̰ѡ)ɝյɽ́́ͽɅѥ̸ٕٔՅ䁝aЁ屗d=ձͅѡ啅́Ёѡɕ)եͥєɕє͕́ѥ́əհ̰ɕͥѼѡM]ɱ]ȁͽɥ)́ݕɔ͕ЁѡЁѥ̸%Ё݅́Ёȁɡ́ѡɥ͍ձ͕ͥѥ́ѡ)ɽչѡ́ѥѡЁY ́ɕѕѡȁٕ́Ёɕٕ役ѽՍѡQɐI)Ցɔȁم䁍͔մэȁݽ%Ё݅́!ݕٕȰѡݽɱͅ܁ɕ٥م啅́ѕȁѡͥѥ)ɕѕ́ȁɕ)ձݥѡɥݡѡѕɴaЁd݅́Յ䁍Mѡݔ)Ʌɽєݡɥȁͽѕ́хѼѡ́ͥ屔ݡٕѽ)1ՍMɥɕѕ̸QݕхэݽձՅ䁥ɕٕ́́́́ݔ́ѕɅ䰁Ʌ)х͕Ʌєѵ́ȁݑȁаɕєѡѥȁѡɸݽZ(