Benefits of sleep sleep studies and the productivity and health benef Build your own shed - Page 20

Step F: Install the Soffits & Siding 1. Cut twelve 2 × 2 nailers to fit between the rafters, as shown in the EAVE DETAIL. Fasten the nailers between the rafters with 10d facenails or 8d toenails. 2. Rip the 3/8" plywood soffit panels to fit between the wall framing and the fascia. Fasten the soffits to the rafters with 3d galv. box nails. 3. Cut holes for four soffit vents: locate one vent in each of the two outer rafter bays, along the eave, on both sides of the building. Install the soffit vents. 4. Install the plywood siding, using 8d galv. finish nails. Butt the top edges of the siding against the soffits. Don't nail the siding to the rear-window and door headers in this step. At the gable ends, install Z-flashing along the top edge of siding, then continue the siding up to the soffits. Note: Along the side walls, 8-ft. siding will cover the floor plywood by about 1/2" (this is necessary); if you want the siding to cover the floor framing, use 4 × 9-ft. sheets. Step G: Build & Install the Doors 1. Cut out the bottom plate from the door opening. 2. Cut the door frame pieces from 3/4" × 4 1/2" (actual dimension) cedar: cut the head jamb at 61 1/4" and the side jambs at 81 7/8". Assemble the frame by screwing through the head jamb and into the side jambs with 2 1/2" deck screws. 3. Cut 1 × 2 stops and install them inside the jambs with 1 1/4" deck screws or 3d galv. finish nails. If the doors will swing out, install the stops 2 1/4" from the outside edges of the frame; if they'll swing in, install the stops 2 1/4" from the inside edges. 4. Install the door frame in the rough opening, using shims and 10d galv. casing nails. Make sure the frame is square and plumb. 5. Cut twelve pieces of 1 × 6 tongue-&-groove boards at 81 3/4". For each door, fit together six boards with their ends flush, then mark the two end boards for trimming so that the total width is 30". Trim the end boards.