August 2017 Magazines 89052 - Page 66

Haute Spot Sunday Funday Brunch at Boteco By Aly Wagonseller IN MY BOOK, A GREAT BRUNCH MUST POSSESS three things if it’s worth peeling off the PJs on an early Sunday morning: a menu that’s thoughtful and diverse; a casual, relaxed vibe; and most importantly–a glass (or two) that over- floweth with bubbly libation. And, although we’ve been for- tunate to see a few great neighborhood brunch spots pop up over the past couple of years, a new, very impressive addition to the Sunday Funday scene has arrived. Boteco, located at 9500 So. Eastern Ave. #170 marries a quaint, corner bar expe- rience with a pedigreed chef who’s brandishing serious culi- nary skills. It’s worth kicking off the covers for. Not just for brunch (they’re open for dinner only with the exception of Sunday morning), the Boteco concept derives from a Brazilian watering hole serving respectable wines and $2 beer at will, while offering small bites for casual conversa- tion and social time. It’s a Portuguese thing that translates ala Spanish tapas houses. Chef Rachel LeGloahec is classically trained, having honed her craft at heavy hitting Michelin Star restaurants that include Robuchon, L’Atelier de Joël Robuchon, and Relais & Chateaux White Barn. Using a bit of global poetic licensing, she’s created a simple, yet sophisticated menu with Asian, French and Spanish influences, offering a wide range of dishes from Spanish black-footed pig served with tomato bread, to pork belly on a Bao bun accompanied by tamarind gastrique and pickled pineapple, or a traditional Coq au Vin they bill as Chicken and Mash. The ingredients are of the highest quality, while the prep and presentation are spot on, a detail that isn’t abandoned when the clock strikes nine on Sunday morning. 66 The brunch menu is small and seasonally influenced, yet suf- ficiently diverse for varied tastes. For those hoping to satisfy the morning sweet tooth, selections that include Strawberry and Champagne Pancakes, served Dutch Baby style; Poor Knights of Windsor, a vanilla custard brioche French toast dusted with peanut dust and slathered in black and blue syrup; or Greek Yogurt Mt. Charleston parfait made with fruit, house made Bircher Muësli and lavender honey will suf- fice. Savory is where it’s at for me, though, and there was much to be celebrated, starting with the house made Vodka Cured Salmon Gravlax. Oh my…fresh, buttery salmon cured in blue- berry vodka…how could that be anything but fabulous? And boy was it, the melt in your mouth fish accompanied by thinly sliced red onion, pops of briny caper and homemade whipped August/September 2017 crème fraîche, all served on locally baked pumpernickel bread studded with sunflower seeds. Steak & Egg arrived next–yes, all the dishes come at different times–a detail that encourages sharing much like the tapas attitude on their dinner menu. Presented at the perfect, medium rare temperature ordered, the hanger steak was tender and juicy, drizzled with herbed Euro butter and served with a sunny side egg that added fur- ther richness. A delightful potato stack, rendered crispy on the outer edges, yet creamy in the interior, and a nicely dressed micro green salad which provided the necessary acidic coun- terpart, rounded out this tasty dish. More selections that included beef and bacon Botequito Sliders topped with a quail egg and served on a brioche bun, as well as Tacos da Moda, made with Spanish chorizo, steak and scrambled eggs and offered with an avocado cream that missed the mark for me, were good, but the Foie Gras Benedict held a special place on my palate. For something that sounds so heavy and rich, this particular version managed to keep it lighter than expected. This was largely due to the absence of actual slices of foie gras; instead its flavor was infused into a delightful foam that accompanied an umptious hollandaise sauce that, while exceedingly flavorful, wasn’t over the top heavy. Poached eggs were perfection, and an aggres- sive mushroom, caramelized onion and bacon hash added a smoky element of blissful surprise to this well thought out dish. Brunch isn’t brunch wit ]H\H[[\\[X™\۸&]\\[\HZ]\]\[HHHYBHX\H][H[\HXYH[ܚX\[\YۙHHH\܈H LXY]\\\YH[ \^Y[\YۙH\\[Y]Z^[X]XX[[KX\[\\܈]\H[[ۘ[™]ܜ[x&\H\H]HH[^H[[Y [ [YH\]\[\X[[]XZ[8$H[Y[x&\HXH]وYX\H܈\[HYZH[ۘH]]\x$H]X[]Hو[[š\H\ܝHZ] ]8&\H\X]Y[[ۈ[B۸&][Z\ˈX\[Y\^HY]\^HH KLLK][^H[HKM [[B] ML Ľ܈\\][ۜˈ8