we almost missed a leopard lazing in a tree above us! We headed back to camp before the day’s heat became too much, opting for a swim and a siesta after lunch.
Our third day offered our last chance to spot those elusive predators, so we joined an early morning game drive. The first sign of their presence was a high-pitched chattering, followed by white tails bobbing in the grass. We quickly joined the hunt, watching in a mixture of awe and horror as the pack of wild dog chased an antelope in a coordinated group, running it down and biting it until it fell. Though tough to watch, we felt privileged to witness wild dog in action at last. Later, we enjoyed our last boat safari, exploring Lake Nzerakera at a much less frenetic pace!
We woke up at dawn, keen to fully experience our final moments at Siwandu, including a last indulgent outdoor shower. A cup of local coffee on our verandah looking over the lake and an expansive breakfast preceded the next stage of our travels: to Ras Kutani on the Swahili coast.
Three nights at Ras Kutani
The landscape soon changed from the open wilderness of southern Tanzania to the cityscape of Dar es Salaam. On arrival, we were driven to the shores of a freshwater lagoon and rowed across to Ras Kutani.
After our busy safari schedule, we decided to take a day off for pure relaxation. It was a tough choice between loafing at our private plunge pool or on the beach, but eventually the beach won, simply because we couldn’t wait to sink our feet into the sand. Being able to signal our need for a drink by putting a flag in the sand was an undeniable luxury – one we took full advantage of! After a fresh seafood lunch, our afternoon was spent at the spa – indulging in massages and rejuvenating beauty treatments.
We lay in the next morning, relishing the comfort of our Sultan bed and the views over the lagoon from our hillside suite. With a range of fun activities on offer, including snorkelling, bodyboarding, kayaking or even horse riding, we were spoilt for choice. We kayaked in the lagoon and snorkelled at an abandoned shipwreck, swimming with a turtle for a few seconds before it jetted away. Lunch was served on the beach, dinner at the beachside restaurant – both fabulous affairs. Later, we enjoyed a leisurely evening swim in our pool and a luxurious bubble bath before turning in.
We woke up bright and early the next morning to join our guide for a walk on the beach, where we were one of the lucky few to witness endangered green sea turtles hatch and make their first journey into the ocean. The tropical forest behind the lodge is home to 132 species of trees and four types of monkey, including the black and white colobus, we learned on our later walk into the forest. We watched them swoop and swing from the trees, taking plenty of pictures, before spending the rest of the day on the beach.
After a whirl of packing, we managed to catch a last few hours of tropical sunshine on the beach, before we were transferred back to Dar es Salaam for our flight home.
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PHOTOGRAPHY: SELOUS SAFARI COMPANY, SHUTTERSTOCK