AORE Association News February 2015 | Page 19

The Cuba Connection [Cont.] between $25 and $40 dollars a night. Where to Climb Photo by Rick Krause Climbing in Cuba is different than any other place in the world. The Cuban government has officially barred all types of climbing in the western providence of Pinar del Rio, specifically centralized in the most developed area, Vinales. Local climbers have been dealing with this unsavory situation for years, with the government edicts having little impact on the momentum of the area's development. There has been no dialogue between the government and the people who use the area, so little is understood as to why Vinales has been restricted. Regardless of the government position, nothing has been done to stop climbers from using the area. Police do patrol Vinales, but often ignore climbers entirely. If in the unlikely scenario you are stopped, they will simply ask you to leave. The most popular area, Mogote del Valle, is the only one actually overseen, with the entire backside of the crags unguarded. If you are caught, grab some lunch, wait until 2:00pm when the patrols end, and get back to climbing! The cheapest way to reach Vinales from Havana is to take the bus. It leaves twice a day: at 9:00am, and 2:00pm. The ride takes roughly three hours and will cost you $12 dollars one way. Be aware that tickets are sold on a first come first serve basis, so make sure to arrive at the station well before your bus departs. Whereas Havana is a cultural metropolis of 2.1 million people, Vinales is a small remote town with only two streets running through it. It started as a town of runaway slaves, but soon became yoked under the growth of tobacco farming with agriculture dominating the area to this day. Coffee, various fruits and vegetables, and of course tobacco, are the economic staples that have helped this town thrive. The recent boon in tourism, especially climbing, has caused the town to grow, but not in the way you would expect. No major Vinales town square, Photo By Rick Krause hotels, restaurants, or nightclubs have sprung up in the interim, leaving the town quaint. When staying in Vinales, choose from one of many casa particulars, which are inexpensive, close to the crags, and often are good places to meet local climbers and guides. Local climbing casa's can be found at: http://climbingcasas.wix.com/cuba-climbing-casas. The climbing in Vinales is superb, with overhanging features and unique lines dominated by jugs and pockets. The solid limestone rock is riddled with overhanging stalactites and columns of tufa. The mild weather averages around 70° F with lows in the 50's and highs in the 90's. Most seasons are perfect for climbing staying consistent in temperature and weather year round. The summer is the monsoon season, but the overhanging features offer good protection from the rain. Hurricanes typically hit the island in the fall, mostly in October and November, but Vinales' location on the north side of the island helps shelter it from the brunt of most tropical storms. More than 80% of the routes in Vinales can be found at Mogote del Valle, no more than half a mile and clearly visible from town. If you are looking to connect with local climbers, a yearly competition takes place Photo By Rick Krause 19