28 fastlane
14 15
16 17
Remove the two center
blower studs on the left
side of the engine. Use
doubled nuts if they’re
stuck. Then install the
longer studs from the kit,
leaving about 1 inch above
the washer as shown.
Use a torque
wrench to
tighten the
blower studs to
10 ft-lbs.
18
Most blower cases have
fl at, counter-sunk mounting
holes that play havoc with
your main blower case
bracket. Leave the existing
washer underneath the
bracket as shown. You don’t
need to add another washer
on top of the bracket when
you tighten the stud’s nut
again. This method will also
raise the bracket to clear tall
valve covers.
The linkage kit comes with
several 10-24 nylon lock nuts.
Don’t use these for mocking
up the linkage. Use regular
10-24 thread hex nuts like
these. Another tip you’ll
thank me for later.
Two of the splined lever arms
go on the long end of the
splined shaft, which faces
the rear of the engine and
connects the bell crank to
the main shaft assembly. The
arm at the rear of the shaft
(marked C) connects to the
rear carburetor. The front
arm (B) goes to the vertical
link from the bell crank. Set
the distance between them
(V as I call it) at a minimum
of 1 1/4 inch to no more to 1
1/2 inch apart as measured at
the screw-hole centerlines.
You might not beable to get
it exact, but close is good
enough.
19
Assemble the rest of the splined shaft components exactly as shown. Pay close attention to the orientation of all parts—fl ip one around
and you’ll be in for headaches later on. The two splined lever arms on the ends marked A and C need to be as close to parallel as
possible. In all my years of doing this, I’ve never found one shaft that has the splines cut exactly equal end-to-end, so just get them as
close as possible by laying the assembly down on the bench as shown and making sure both arms are close to touching the worktop. Do
not tighten the lock screws on any of these pieces yet. They need to slide around for now.