improve the tribe’s well-being, while
preserving their way of life.
Jackson explains the many nuances
of the Maasai people, starting with
the basics. “I was not named when
I was born. And the year and date of
my birth were not recorded,” he says.
“Maasai people don’t follow a calendar.
We know when a year has gone by
through the passing of the seasons—
rainy and dry.”
There’s something oddly liberating
about this system when set against our
Western world measured in commuting
hours and social media posts. Though
it’s not without its challenges, as
Jackson discovered before a trip to
Canada. “I didn’t have a birth certificate,
let alone a passport,” he says. “To get a
birth certificate, I was asked my age. I
guessed I was about 50 years old, but it
turns out I was in my early twenties.”
Other idiosyncratic aspects of
Maasai life also come into view. When
I ask why most men are missing two of
their front teeth, he explains that it’s
a cosmetic ritual performed on both
baby and permanent teeth. “We do so
as a way to differentiate ourselves from
other tribes. And for us, it is a sign of
beauty,” he says, flashing a big grin.
32
WINTER 2017
AMA INsIdER
When the teeth are pulled, without
painkillers, the boys are instructed not
to flinch or show any inkling of discom-
fort—considered a sign of weakness.
During a trip to the rural village of
Sikirar, we pass hundreds of hump-
necked Boran cattle being herded at
the side of the road, en route to the
nearby river. Cows, I quickly learn, are
prized creatures here. Not only are they
a main source of sustenance for their
milk, meat and even blood, cows are
Maasai indicators of wealth. Success
is defined by herd size—the more you
have, the richer you are. A herd of 50
qualifies as upper-middle class.
Another traditional, albeit vicious,
status symbol is the killing of a lion.
For centuries before lion populations
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A choir of Maasai singers; sundown on the Mara (right)