n Scotland, hiStory isn’t some
far-off notion reserved for school
books—it’s something you
inhabit with every step you take,
especially when you step into one
of the country’s countless castles.
When the Normans conquered
England in the 11th century, Scotland’s
King David I invited them to settle
on Scottish land. They did—and they
brought their castle-building tech-
niques with them.
It’s estimated that thousands of cas-
tles were built here over the next few
hundred years. More than a thousand
are still standing today as picturesque
ruins, hostels and luxury hotels, or fully
functioning places of residence. Kick
off your castle-hopping journey in the
capital city of Edinburgh.
The dramatic Eilean Donan Castle
Edinburgh
Perched high atop a 350-million-year-
old volcanic crag, Edinburgh Castle,
occupies a huge tract of land. It
includes St. Margaret’s Chapel—built
around 1130 and considered the oldest
building in the city—plus Scotland’s
National War Museum and the Crown
Room, which houses the Scottish
Crown Jewels.
Pack a lunch and hike up Arthur’s
Seat, a 250-metre-high hill in the cen-
tre of the city. Formed by an extinct
volcano, it’s a gentle climb and leads to
a panoramic view of Edinburgh. If you
prefer to go the cultured route, visit
the Scottish National Gallery or the
National Museum of Scotland, both
of which offer free admission.
You’ll be visiting small Highland
towns for the next few days, where
traditional Scottish food reigns. So
in the city, try Mother India’s Café, a
tapas-style Indian restaurant nestled
in Edinburgh’s Old Town. Dine on chili
king prawns and creamy chana dal.
Stirling, AnguS & AbErdEEnShirE
On your first full day of castle-hopping,
your first stop should be Doune Castle
near Stirling, once the home of Robert
Stewart, the first Duke of Albany, who
ruled Scotland from 1388 until his
death in 1420. Located on the banks
of the River Teith—the historic natural
boundary between the Highlands and
6
Eilean
Donan
Cawdor
SCOTL AND
Dunnottar
Glamis
Inveraray
Doune
Edinburgh
Lowlands—the ruined castle makes a
cameo in Sir Walter Scott’s 1810 poem
Lady of the Lake, in which he writes of
“the bannered towers of Doune.”
Glamis Castle in nearby Angus is a
far cry from the rugged ruins of Doune.
Home to the Lyon family since the 14th
century, Glamis in its present state
largely dates from the 17th and 18th
centuries—by Scottish standards, it’s
positively contemporary.
Located in Aberdeenshire—which
boasts more castles per hectare than
any other area in the U.K.—Dunnottar
Castle is a ruined fortress perched on a
steep cliff overlooking the North Sea.
Stop off at Gloagburn Farm Shop,
between Doune and Glamis castles.
Owned and run by third-generation
farmers, Gloagburn offers breakfast,
lunch and afternoon tea service. Nibble
on smoked ham or farmhouse cheddar
sandwiches made with homemade
bread, or go full Scottish with the tradi-
tional afternoon tea.
Dunnottar Castle is a short drive from
the chic Tolbooth Seafood Restaurant,
which is nestled on a scenic harbour
in a 16th-century building in the town
of Stonehaven. Try Scotland’s famed
salmon, poached in a lemon-vegetable
broth and served with shaved fennel
and saffron potato salad.
MorAy & highlAnd
Cawdor Castle as it stands today was
built in the late 14th century. Though
the name suggests a connection to
Shakespeare’s Macbeth—the title
character was named Thane of
Cawdor before becoming king—the
real Macbeth never lived there. It still »
AMA InsIder
summer 2018
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