Left: Breakfast in the GoldLeaf dining car
Below left: Gourmet plating
Below right: A witty onboard host
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SUMMER 2016
AMA INSIDER
the Fraser narrows and river water is
forced to crash through a steep gorge.
We cross over the river on a grand
century-old arch bridge, marvelling
at both the engineers who built it and
the churning water below. We pass
Avalanche Alley, where trains used to
slow down so men could reach out and
grab Morse code messages clipped to
telegraph poles (they have a different
use now—our host points out a giant
osprey nest atop one of them).
As we roll into Kamloops around
dinnertime, people wave to us from
playgrounds and backyards. There are
even a few guys on horses with red
shirts and white bandanas waiting to
say hello—the Kamloops Mounted
Patrol, a volunteer welcoming committee. We hop off the train for dinner and
spend the night at a hotel. The next
morning, we steady our train legs as we
climb back aboard, hungry for breakfast and the ten-hour journey to Banff.
We pass the headwaters of the
Adams River. Salmon swim upstream
for more than 500 kilometres from
the Pacific to spawn here. We roll past
the spot where notorious bandit Billy
Miner robbed the wrong train in 1906,
netting only $15 and some liver pills.
The train slows so we can see the
monument that marks one of Canada’s
earliest photo