The Flavours of Salento |
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Historically , Salento was one of Italy ’ s poorer regions ; people couldn ’ t afford to eat a lot of meat . But flavour is hardly in short supply in its cucina della terra — dishes of the earth |
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FAMILY FARE : Feast on platters of eggplant , fried ricotta and fried chickpea pasta at the family-run Alle due Corti in lecce . The restaurant and its matriarch have been recognized by UnESCO for helping to revive the region ’ s gastronomic traditions .
PIzzA : You can choose a variety of toppings for your pie at lecce ’ s pizza & Co ., but the Ortona brothers who own it suggest taking a frugal approach : There ’ s much to be said for the fresh buffalo mozzarella , basil and tomato sauce .
GELAto : gelato is a staple in italy . Try a flight of flavours at Cremeria alla Scala in Ostuni .
WInE : Salento produces some excellent grape varietals — negroamaro , primitivo and Fiano . most wineries offer tours , so grab a map and a designated driver and get tasting .
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are just a day trip away . Like the glorious beaches of the Adriatic Coast , just a half-hour drive from Lecce .
There ’ s good reason Italians like to vacation in Salento : You can set up your own umbrella along many kilometres of sandy shore , or pay a few euros to go to a beach club with Wi-Fi , showers and men in their bathers kicking around the soccer ball .
Narrow streetscapes in Otranto
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Pizza & Co .’ s ownerbrothers Maurizio and Paolo Ortona
Otranto , Gallipoli & Alberobello
Southeast of Lecce , Otranto ’ s narrow streets meander uphill from its popular harbour . Visit on a Sunday and your shopping excursion may be briefly interrupted by white-robed priests and singing townspeople headed to the local cathedral .
In western Salento , the Ionian Coast offers more beaches and swimming — not to mention the town of Gallipoli , with its 14th-century walls and beautiful seaside , as well as contemporary fishermen tending their nets .
Or head north to Ostuni , the pretty “ White City ” that sits atop a hill . Just beyond , you ’ ll find the trulli of Alberobello , a collection of UNESCO World Heritage-designated limestone houses with conical roofs . They look like something out of a fairy tale , but they were actually constructed as a tax dodge . The odd-shaped roofs didn ’ t use mortar so they were deemed “ temporary ” and not taxed .
Such charming quirks and easy hospitality are just waiting to be discovered throughout the region . Roam
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BROTHERS : AdAm BlASBERg / ESpRESSinO TRAvEl ; OTRAnTO : mATTEOCOzzi / iSTOCk |