AMA Insider Fall 2018/ Under 55 | Page 40

Wrapping the enormous Mirisawetiya Vihara 40 Fall 2018 AMA InsIder Anuradhapura, a UNESCO World Heritage Site, kicks off our history lesson. The 40-square-kilometre stretch is one of the world’s longest- inhabited cities and has been a sacred place for Buddhists throughout the centuries. It’s an area dotted with majestic domed shrines known as stupas, which house Buddhist relics. After seeing the truly immense Ruwanwelisaya stupa, surrounded by elephant statues and napping monkeys, we continue on to Mirisawetiya Vihara stupa. I walk barefoot with the faithful, who leave offerings of fragrant lotus and marigold. The stark white structure pops with colourful fabric wrapped around its base—the navy, red, white, orange and yellow of the Buddhist flag. Families gather and fill the air with gentle murmurs of prayers. Nearby, ancient ruins become an impromptu cricket pitch for some local boys. Before leaving the dusty site, we visit smaller stupas and the Samadhi statue, a two-metre granite Buddha, one of the oldest of its kind here. A couple of hours outside of lovely Anuradhapura, we transfer to safari vehicles to enter Kaudulla National Park. We bounce along the muddy road, passing strutting peacocks, until we arrive at the Kaudulla Tank, a man- made lake originally constructed in the third century AD by King Mahasena. My tour, National Geographic Journeys’ Discover Sri Lanka with G Adventures, begins with a quick Sinhalese language lesson. G Adventures CEO (chief experience officer) Sam Jayathilaka teaches our group to say ayubowan, which translates to “may you live long” and is used as an all-purpose salutation: hello, welcome or goodbye. Sam encourages me to sample a Sri Lankan breakfast staple: mee kiri, buffalo milk curd with palm treacle, a sweet syrup made from the Palmyra palm tree. As I dig in on the open-air patio, I spot a toque macaque hungrily eyeing our morning meal. The species of brown-and-white monkey is ubiqui- tous in the region; I see them daily.